Woman III Jil Sander 2012

Reformulated reissues of older fragrances are probably not easy to sell to men (or women). The lovers of the original scent will approach the reissue with suspicion, perceiving all changes as disturbing, and in doubt will prefer the original. And new, younger buyer demographics will likely opt for a genuine new release instead of acquiring the "lifted" version of a fragrance that their parents or even grandparents have in their bathroom. This dilemma was certainly recognized by the marketing team at Jil Sander. Nevertheless, they dared to reissue the Jil Sander classic Woman III from 1986.

I find that the reissue is largely successful. My perfume socialization took place in the 80s, and the Chypre classics from Aromatics to Woman III have shaped my sense of scent. Therefore, it is simply impossible for me to approach the reissue of Woman III completely unprejudiced. However, if I try to free myself from direct comparisons with the original or even with other Chypre classics, I believe that a contemporary, quite cautious and thoughtful reinterpretation of the Chypre theme has taken place here.

The most concessions to today's taste, in my opinion, are made by the top note: It is fruity, pleasing, subtly sweet, and has a very rounded and velvety impression, like many current women's fragrances in the drydown. The Chypre framework initially only emerges very, very slowly behind this smooth, velvety-fruity top note, shimmering through for quite some time like a skeleton - a sad skeleton, I thought during the first test. But the fragrance simply needs time; the Chypre skeleton does not remain a skeleton but slowly comes to the forefront, becoming more and more alive as the fruity-smooth top note fades away, and eventually it is there: an almost pure Chypre. Floral, herbal, mossy, earthy, still slightly overlaid by this contemporary velvety smoothness - a kind of near-Chypre; in a way, a version of Chypre that, despite its Chypre character, may just barely pass as mass-market suitable from a marketing perspective today.

I do not hide the fact that I prefer the real, old Chypres - if it’s going to be done, then let it be the real deal! But the goal of launching an updated reissue of Woman III that fits today's fragrance habits, a Chypre scent with concessions to contemporary taste, without completely abandoning the structures of the old version and with respect for the old formulation, this goal has been well achieved here.