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7.4 / 10 27 Ratings
A perfume by JoAnne Bassett for women, released in 1965. The scent is spicy-floral. The longevity is above-average. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Main accords

Spicy
Floral
Green
Woody
Chypre

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
ChamomileChamomile MugwortMugwort BergamotBergamot
Heart Notes Heart Notes
JasmineJasmine VioletViolet Ylang-ylangYlang-ylang RoseRose JubtroflexJubtroflex
Base Notes Base Notes
MossMoss MuskMusk AmberAmber SandalwoodSandalwood Knurled EnvelopeKnurled Envelope
Ratings
Scent
7.427 Ratings
Longevity
8.323 Ratings
Sillage
7.322 Ratings
Bottle
7.628 Ratings
Submitted by Woody · last update on 07/20/2020.
Source-backed & verified

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to
N°19 (Parfum) by Chanel
N°19 Parfum

Reviews

1 in-depth fragrance description
Meggi

1018 Reviews
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Meggi
Meggi
Top Review 22  
Did the pig get shoved?
My brother is a shipbuilding engineer and recently switched employers out of frustration. A few years at a well-known technical service company in a prominent northern German Hanseatic city were enough for him. A huge place where every few months a new management philosophy pig was driven through the halls, until even the last employee lost track of where the journey was supposed to go. But perhaps the undoubtedly well-paid management along with the equally generously compensated consultants knew what they were doing. One expects nothing less from big companies.

Penhaligon’s may not be that big, yet some of their (product) decisions leave me puzzled. Why did you remove this fragrance from the lineup? A comparatively warm and mild, certainly not arbitrary chypre, which in my humble opinion definitely had a right to exist.

Beyond typical top note behavior, mugwort contributes a decent portion of a certain something. Nevertheless, a jasmine-soapy clean impression quickly emerges, which I find well-groomed and also suitable for the (gentle)man. I wouldn't have come to chamomile on my own so quickly, but it is surprisingly clear when pointed out. I had already wondered what that mossy-herbaceous prickling was - it was a composite flower note.

Amber, moss, jasmine, and a splash of bergamot are finely balanced. Although this is not at all to my taste - my rating should be understood particularly in this context! - I surprisingly enjoy smelling it in this case and take pleasure in the pleasantly rounded composition.

In the afternoon, the subtle jasmine soapiness and moss complement each other. Not scratchy. Creamy. Herbaceous. Tending to be perhaps a bit more feminine now. From the seventh or eighth hour, the fragrance gradually weakens, but it remains perceptible for several more hours.

Admittedly: The progression, aside from the mugwort surprise, is not exactly bursting with originality; yet Ormulu never, really never loses control over the moss and remains balanced until the end. Nice. I don't like it when stuff gets too scratchy.

Ormulu is well-suited for those who, for example, do not want to subject their colleagues to a chypre bomb. Or for beginners in the world of more herbaceous women’s fragrances. Is? Would be. We’ve already covered that. Perhaps this subtlety, which may be interpreted as a lack of courage or even as a weakness, has become its downfall. Alternatively, a new pig may have shoved it aside.

I thank Ergoproxy for the sample.
11 Comments

Statements

6 short views on the fragrance
7
1
Classic, green-herb Chypre with a soapy-floral heart and a mossy-powdery base. Elegant and not scratchy. Stands out.
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4
A Chypre classic that couldn't be more representative. As expected from scents of this era, it offers great longevity and sillage. Good.
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0 Comments
3
Green fresh start, hardly any bergamot. Then it becomes green & floral. In the base, still floral but also spicy, soapy, mossy.
(MUD IX)
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3
1
Chypre-spicy start, later floral creamy.
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3
2
Rich, classic chypre scent. Opulent, long-lasting, elegant.
Strong longevity and sillage. The chamomile adds a lovely twist.
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2 Comments
3
A scent from another time. A classic chypre that unfortunately doesn't seem to fit today's world anymore.
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