Russisch Leder Johann Maria Farina gegenüber dem Jülichs-Platz 1967 Eau de Toilette

During a pre-Christmas stroll through the (surprisingly empty) Cologne city center, after a detour to Manufactum (where very expensive brass watering cans were admired), I made my way to the Farina headquarters across the street, which is, depending on the invoice, the oldest still-existing perfume house in the world. Just after a brief sniff at one of the prepared "scent bells," it was clear that the plan I had made beforehand to purchase a bottle of "Russian Leather" had to be put into action: Deep cinnamon and incense notes spontaneously enhanced the very delicately developed Christmas feeling within me this year. That "instant mindfulness boost" alone was worth the 19 euros for 15 ml!

At home, I expected an opening reminiscent of "Tabac Original," as not a few reviewers on these pages noted a corresponding association. And indeed: To some extent, the old Mäurer & Wirtz flagship resonates in the top note, although the rustic oak wall is missing. This seems to be primarily responsible for the beige retiree vest note that many associate with Tabac Original, as Mrs. Konsalik (who can't stand "grandpa scents" like Tabac Original on me) was immediately taken with the top note. However, the scent impression in the first hour is definitely dominated by a herb-fresh, soapy lavender, which pushes everything clearly in the direction of "barbershop"; a theme that has experienced a delightful renaissance in recent years.

The heart and base gradually gain the upper hand, and by this point, "Russian Leather" almost feels modern: The clear representation of the individual components (primarily, as mentioned, cinnamon and incense or styrax, underlaid with vanilla) comes across as quite contemporary, if not timeless. "Leather," as it is presented to us in a "quasi-naturalistic" manner by today's perfumery (Tom Ford's leather fragrances, Davidoff's "Leather Blend," etc.), has little to do with "Russian Leather." Instead, it plays with associations that belong to the word field "leather": club chair, horseback ride, fireplace - but indeed no 1:1 correspondence to the new leather jacket.

Once again, I find myself compelled to tip my hat to a classic from an old house. Not for nostalgic reasons, but simply out of recognition of the quality offered: All the scent components exude value and reformulation resistance, the longevity is appropriate, the sillage is present but never loud: That's how it should be!