This is the slogan for the old, now renewed Russisch Leder! Farina kept announcing it for ages, then they were selling only tiny miniature flasks for some months but finally, it's out! I was lucky to get a sample early in 2011, at a perfume fair where Farina was presenting it.
Farina Gegenüber's Russisch Leder puts a smile on every face: a traditional birch tar accord, unmistakably masculine and exciting. Farina claims to be the first who released a Russian Leather, many decades ago. Possible, but it does not matter that much, does it? It is the result that counts. And this version of Russian Leather does something to me that neither the expensive Cuir de Russie by Chanel nor the cheap Russisch Juchten by Harry Lehmann achieves: It brings back childhood memories!
This is about the smell you could get in a barber shop during the 1960's or 70's, when after a decent cut and shave a big load of Russian Leather Eau de Cologne was splashed into the customer's face. Just one of these things you do not forget. Chanel's Cuir de Russie may be a high quality perfume, noble and a fine choice - it simply does not tell a story. But Farinas Russisch Leder does! The slogan for the small advertising campaign could not have been chosen more aptly.
The mystery behind this fragrance may be the fact that Farina decided to declare it a gentleman's fragrance. And you can smell it! No regards to the requirements of unisex perfumes are made as the other Cuir de Russies do. Nevertheless, Farina's Russisch Leder is anything but simple. The scent pyramid shows a complexity that only in the drydown becomes a bit more bland. It is difficult for me to analyse this fragrance. Are there any florals? Yes, but totally discreet. Musky notes and vanilla? Only a hint of. Vetiver and Cedarwood? Maybe. Herbal or fougère stuff? Yes, definitely! By the way, almost the structure of a chypre. Anyway, it simply suits my taste!
I see a certain similarity to Mäurer & Wirtz' Tabac Original - but only in style. This is also something from the past that perfume lovers love to come back to once in a while - disregarding of their favour for any sophisticated or fancy perfumes. However, compared to Tabac Original, Russisch Leder is definitely of a better quality.
A big compliment to Farina Gegenüber for having dared to re-issue their Russian Leather! In this case I'd hoped for some more money put into an ad campaign than they obviously do. The customers will not find their way back to this fragrance on their own. Too much time has passed since it had been discontinued. Too many fashion trends have by now changed people's fragrance preferences. Even an iconic perfume like Russisch Leder will work out only if it is launched at least as an insiders' tip.
Here is the reformulated scent pyramid: Top: Lemon, Bergamot, Basil Heart: Fern, Carnation, Vetiver, Ylang-Ylang, Cedarwood, Geranium, Cinnamon Base: Leather, Musk, Storax, Moss, Vanilla
If just more traditional perfume houses would dare to bring back their great perfumes from the past!
Farina Gegenüber is a traditional perfume company founded in 1709 in Cologne. It still seems to be owned by the descendants of the original founder. They claim to be the ones to have invented the original "Eau de Cologne", and this is the product they became well known for. If you ever come to Cologne do not miss the Farina Gegenüber Perfume Museum in the city center!
