Nirmal Laboratorio Olfattivo 2010

The entire spectrum of iris is skillfully and enjoyably explored in this perfume, making it aptly described as a perfumery talent probe: a study that unfolds the entire iris-iron-ionone prism to show how the arc runs across the possible facets. This gifted unfolding of iris potential gives rise to the idea that Rosine Courage (of whom we know nothing else) presented Nirmal as the final project of her perfumer training, demonstrating her excellent understanding of the entire iron segment and her finesse in handling it.
At the same time, Nirmal is also a very wearable, flattering perfume that accompanies the wearer in a cheerful and unobtrusive manner (yet is always noticeable) and does not use the wearer as a mere canvas for olfactory art, but rather smells quite "personal": it emphasizes individuality instead of overwriting it. Allowing space for the human element while maintaining a certain lightness and brightness works excellently with Iso-E-Super - and there is a considerable amount of it in there.
Nirmal is truly unisex. Not a bit more of this or that, but actually right in the middle. Nevertheless, I would strongly recommend it to gentlemen who have not yet found anything truly suitable in the iris corner and do not find the squared circle in the iris-vanilla solution of Dior Homme.
Also, anyone (regardless of gender) who does not quite like the carrot-like scent of natural iris root or the metallic nature of synthetic iris on its own, or who finds the conventional powdery iris interpretations too "flat," should take a sniff of Nirmal.

Nirmal begins with what is somewhat cheekily referred to in the pyramid as simply "carrot": Initially flanked by bergamot, a naturally graceful iris note emerges with the full carrot that real iris root can have. It does not really smell vegetable... but also not floral. Fresh carrot juice smells strangely dense, tightly packed, substantial, yet remarkably fresh. It smells, in a way, "young." This aspect is highlighted by Nirmal without adding sweetness.
Then the iris transforms: The carrot sheen diminishes, and something emerges that clearly smells like the synthetic iris note known from many perfumes. Clearer, slimmer, and noticeably cooler.
The coolness is emphasized and pointed out by some trick. I can't quite put my finger on what it could be, something greenish.
After this somewhat rough, shadowy-fresh pattern is highlighted, the iris transforms again: it becomes more floral and gains a certain sweetness. The intersection between iris and violet is now spread out. Without succumbing to the cute, charming temptations of the girlish violet note, Nirmal stretches the arc to a gentle, broadening floral quality.
The intended iris powderiness is not fully played out in all its various stages, but always remains only hinted at.
After this iris panorama has now been excitingly and artistically fanned out, the entire fragrance settles down to a softly charming base with a distinct musk-brightened leather note. The intended powder potential is captured in a fluffy-soft wild leatheriness that gently ambers and only slightly warmer in feel, carrying the fragrance through to its fading.

One can wear this skillfully and sensitively composed, cleverly crafted scent and constantly delight in the stages it goes through, repeatedly sniffing with an experienced nose and wondering how it was made and why it succeeds so well in bringing out one or another aspect. That’s fun.
But one can also simply wear an appealing perfume that delights in casual self-awareness because it is multi-layered yet still tidy, because it has a certain radiance without becoming attention-seeking loud, and because it does not conform to any known perfume cliché.
Nirmal flirts with you and speaks to you repeatedly.
That makes it even more enjoyable.