Mandarino Laboratorio Olfattivo 2020

A hallmark of many Jean-Claude Ellena fragrances is their simplicity, achieved through a conscious focus on a straightforward core idea and a manageable number of components. Everything seemingly superfluous is cut away. He prefers to create scents with a clear, concise statement that, despite their simplicity, leave a memorable, distinctive, and lasting impression, while also offering something new to familiar fragrance profiles. He primarily does this in the realm of fresh scents.

**Fragrance:**
As with his work for Hermès (Eau de Mandarine Ambrée), he again takes the mandarin as the main theme here. While the Hermès fragrance emphasizes the soft, gentle side of the fruit, the creation for the Italian brand Laboratorio Olfattivo focuses on the virile freshness. Remarkably realistic and reminiscent of his Malle fragrance "Bigarade Concentrèe" (where the orange is featured), it starts off zesty, sour-fruity, intense, and invigorating. Over time, it develops a slightly increasing base sweetness that enhances the fruity impression. It feels rich and rounded but never (too) sweet. The mandarin remains very naturalistic.

Alongside the dominant fruity note, another olfactory impression stands out: a subtle, slightly spicy soapy tone. This effect, likely stemming from white musk, brings a restrained, diffuse-synthetic nuance. Almost like ISO-E-Super. Not intrusive (as I often find with noticeable artificiality), but it adds a slight sharpness. This gives this perfume cologne - i.e., an Eau de Parfum with a Cologne character - a certain transparency and, above all, a clean, well-groomed quality. In terms of structure, it is quite comparable to Dior's "Dior Homme Cologne" from 2013 (citrus note and diffuse musk, just as clean, similar consistency, same freshness effect, also nearly linear). On the skin, the musk develops a very slight creaminess over time, without softening the fruity character. It is one of those few fragrances that I still enjoy just as much at the end of the wearing time as I did at the beginning.

In overall impression, I would describe it as a fruity mandarin scent with a slightly spicy soapy touch. This combination is so well blended that it creates a very distinct fragrance profile. Despite its simplicity, it feels refined. It is not a pure representation of nature - as Ellena never aims to create - but rather a slightly altered version through soap and a diffuse synthetic vibe (without feeling artificial!). Even in times of not wearing it, I can fully recall it. It imprints itself so deeply into the olfactory memory. To evoke this effect, in my view, is a particularly special ability of Ellena's. It is probably the reduction to the absolutely essential. The art and beauty of the radically simple. With appropriate skill and quality.

Somewhat hidden within it is also that classic French elegance, which Ellena interprets in his very typical, timeless, and slender, almost clinical modernity, and which I attribute to the slight synthetic undertone. For him, it often feels somewhat masculine - at least that’s how I perceive it - if one wants to think in usual categories. Thus, I see the mandarin here, despite all the playful liveliness of the fruity note, as rather mature and quite elegant.

It develops very quickly close to the skin but is surprisingly long-lasting and slightly perceptible on the skin, so that I can still detect it the next day. Often an effect of high-quality musk molecules. According to local classifications, however, an effortless perception of 4-5 hours seems to be a realistic benchmark.

**Conclusion:**
A very beautifully blended, well-groomed, and full-bodied fruity mandarin scent with the special Ellena undertone. For me, the most appealing pure mandarin scent so far.

**Side Notes:**
I have only had a similarly realistic impression of a mandarin with "Owari" by Odin New York (later with a soft creamy wood underpinning) and Guerlain's very pure "Aqua Allegoria Mandarin Basilic." With some reservations, also with Hermès "Eau de Mandarine Ambrée" (slightly muted mandarin, herb-woody and warm-creamy undertone). Acca Kappa's "Green Mandarin" also starts off quite authentically but remains in a rather immature stage and increasingly feels artificial.