Robeyrob
06/04/2025 - 08:15 AM
11
Very helpful Review
9.5Scent 10Longevity 10Sillage 7Bottle 10Pricing

Light or Shadow: A New Interpretation of Oud Fragrances

Today I dedicate myself to "Oud in White | Laboratorio Olfattivo," an exciting and unique reinterpretation, contrary to the usual oud fragrances.

Oud has undoubtedly gained more significance for me throughout my perfume journey, due to its incredibly diverse facets. For this reason, I am always on the lookout for new compositions that take up the theme of oud.

The usual pyramid of the main players, rose/oud, is certainly well-known and the market is now saturated. This should not be interpreted in a derogatory way, as I undeniably love my rose/oud fragrances. Oud in White piqued my interest due to its unique scent pyramid and contrasting fragrance components.

Oud in White starts with an unripe pear, accompanied by a subtly fruity raspberry. The pear is not, as in other pear fragrances, overripe or cloyingly sweet - it possesses a certain freshness with green nuances.
The raspberry discreetly joins in the background, adding the necessary fruitiness to the scent.
Paired with the sharp, citrusy, green ginger, there is a certain lightness, vitality, and transparency.

The expected genuine Cambodian oud sets the tone right from the start. This is not an animalic barn-smelling oud, but dark, leathery with a smoky, balsamic undertone.
In combination with the bright floral jasmine note, the fragrance exudes a certain clean, fresh, and elegant scent aura.
In the air, the overall composition reminds me of an inviting & fragrant hotel lobby in the Arab world. These spa vibes are likely suggested by the citrusy, fresh, and slightly green ginger.

As the fragrance develops, the fruity notes recede into the background, leaving a unique and harmonious magic of bright floral notes, combined with a smoky, leathery oud.

In the drydown, creamy sandalwood and resinous labdanum become more prominent, forming a slightly sweet, resinous, and leathery scent aura together with the oud.

The fragrance is super exciting and unique, as it allows both worlds to merge. A harmonious contrast of bright, clean notes from jasmine and a citrusy green freshness from ginger. The smoky, leathery oud acts wonderfully as an antagonist.

The "oud freshness" reminds me somewhat of "Alhambra Oud | Ramón Monegal," but this fragrance is by no means an imitation or similar.

This DNA has a certain uniqueness and is quite pleasing for a genuine oud fragrance for Western noses.
Apart from the fact that genuine Cambodian oud was used - albeit probably only in small amounts.

The longevity and sillage are absolutely monstrous. After 20 hours, the next day, my fragrance was commented on - mind you, with 4 sprays from the day before.
In the first 8 hours, it is distinctly perceptible, but eventually, the typical scent blindness sets in.

It radiates a certain strength and dominance, which never feels overwhelming or harsh due to the freshness.

Given the consistently floral accents, I see the fragrance as unisex, but with a slight tendency towards the masculine.

Anyone who is fed up with the usual suspects of rose/oud fragrances should definitely give this masterpiece a try.
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