Cologne Nocturne Le Galion 2016

Uncommented Fragrances No. 74

"Great Bear, come down, shaggy night,
cloud-furred creature with the old eyes,
starry eyes,
through the thicket breaking shimmering
your paws with claws,
star claws [...]"
(from Ingeborg Bachmann: Invocation of the Great Bear)

Without wanting to delve into the complicated interpretation of hermetic poetry, it can be said that Ingeborg Bachmann's verses, which are only quoted here in short excerpts, are imbued with a calming yet threatening atmosphere. The night reveals itself in its quiet, serene, melancholic, and nurturing aspect, but also in a dark, impenetrably deep, and overwhelmingly menacing one. The world becomes mysterious in the night.

A nocturnal Cologne, so (m)eagerly my clumsy translation, initially seems to be an ambivalent affair, lost between all claims: Colognes are also meant for refreshment (like Le Galion's "Cologne"). A Cologne 'Nocturne', on the other hand, should not only refresh but also soothe, gently accompany sleep - and not just on a hot, tropical night, but also on cooler, moderate days.

Le Galion has cut this Gordian knot by simply choosing the very ingredient that is attributed with both refreshment and calming: lavender.

In times like these, where true lavender in fragrances is at best relegated to the role of a fresh opening in arbitrarily scented men's fragrances, one might have forgotten to appreciate the natural scent of this plant. Considering the many derogatory comments about classic lavender fragrances (a particularly beautiful one that often suffers this fate is, for example, Caron's pour un Homme), it becomes clear that lavender "pure" in the men's segment sometimes stands for stuffiness, old-fashioned charm, café afternoons, and conservative men's wardrobes. Those who see it this way will not be helped by this Cologne.

A small digression: It is also hardly known that true lavender is used in natural medicine for signs of inner unrest, nervous exhaustion, or sleep disturbances. Those who don't believe it should try it out, perhaps with this fragrance or Caron's pour un Homme. It works.

That the fragrance also fulfills its task of refreshing and cooling is beyond doubt. It is bright, green (herbal extracts alongside the dominant lavender note shape the profile), has subtle citrus notes that only become perceptible after prolonged wear, and invigorating, spicy accents reminiscent of kitchen herbs.

The base, which is woody-dry, seems to contain a tiny pinch of tonka bean (which is not listed here) or rests on the aforementioned very gentle patchouli note, whose tones waft softly through the picture.

A note: Since I hardly read comments that revolve more or less centrally around longevity anymore, I want to warn here at the end that Colognes are generally NOT intended for long-lasting wear, but for subtle refreshment. In the case of Cologne Nocturne, it is likely that a long-lasting effect was not desired during application in mild evening hours, warm summer nights, or while falling asleep. For me, it would be quite the opposite. I do not want or need to smell the fragrance the next morning after evening application (by the way, a term that fits Colognes very well).

Le Galion has once again succeeded in developing a contemporary yet classic fragrance that exudes distinguished elegance, just like almost all fragrances from this new old brand. This is a bold decision in the midst of a niche market that relies on coarse stimuli. Whether the brand can survive long-term with this concept and beautiful, yet subtle fragrances (Whip, Eau Noble, Special for Gentlemen, or Vetyver) is certainly questionable. I strongly hope for a long breath.

Cologne Nocturne probably does not belong to the must-haves of the brand, but could be a good choice for complementing and for the aforementioned purpose: a small night poem.