Chypre Azural Les Indémodables 2016

Les Indémodables is often praised in perfume circles as a very pleasant example of an integral niche, where the selection of raw materials, artistic approach, transparency, and consideration of wearability are in an appealing and balanced relationship. It took me a bit longer to test a fragrance from the brand. Since I like citrus scents the most, I chose ‘Chypre Azural’. My thanks go to Olfaktoria for that. I only had the prior information that it is an orange scent and probably not a chypre scent, as the name - at least to a certain extent - implies. So I was very curious.

**Fragrance description and alternatives:**
Unfortunately, disappointment set in right from the start. Chypre Azural is, from the get-go, a watery, pale, slightly waxy-bitter orange on my skin, resembling a juice that has been diluted with a lot of water. I had imagined it quite differently. Much more expressive. This orange note is supported by an almost transparent, very gentle ozonic-mineral tone, which is minimally salty and subtly metallic. It reminds me most of the smell of light leather that can breathe in fresh air. Interestingly, I keep reading and hearing that real ambergris is used here, which I currently cannot confirm on the brand's own homepage, known for its transparency and which also mentions the use of this ingredient for another fragrance. However, there is a YouTube source where the reviewer ‘FragranceView’ reads the ingredients from the brand booklet and mentions “Ambergris Infusion 2%.” Thus, the composition has apparently changed. My impression of my sample is that perhaps ambergris was still included. However, I wouldn’t want to bet my hand on it, as my perception in this regard is quite faint.
Much more than these two fragrance impressions do not come through during the course, only a barely perceptible delicate herbaceousness - reminiscent of rosemary - that exudes a slightly ethereal spiciness. All of this comes together very organically, but I must point out critically that it remains quite bloodless and reminds me in this respect of some Geza Schön fragrance. The fact that my rating is still in the good range is due to my preference for orange scents and the fact that the composition is coherent.

If this also sounds too pale and pastel-like to you, I would recommend Tauer’s ‘Orange Star’. This has the same waxy-watery orange drink note and a slightly amber-like, subtly leathery base, but is significantly stronger. Certainly also due to the dense musk that is missing in the Les Indémodables scent. Or to Kerosenes ‘Summer of 84’. Also a diluted orange scent, but with what feels like three times the strength and a more accessible presence. Those who prefer a more expressive spicy form should check out Malle’s ‘Cologne Bigarade’ - with a noticeably juicier fruit note - or, if it can go in a slightly smoky-sweaty direction, Parfum d’Empires ‘Azemour Les Orangers’. This also features a much juicier orange tone and is more straightforward in its presence.

The listing of these fragrances already reveals - and this is the second aspect that annoyed me - that Chypre Azural is by no means a chypre fragrance, although one could somewhat trace this in the Corticchiato scent with a lot of goodwill. But this one is not even a light version of this genre, as the name part ‘Azur’ might suggest. It fundamentally lacks the base of oakmoss and patchouli or similarly effective fragrance characters. From my perspective, one cannot speak of a floral heart here either. That is at most vaguely perceptible. For me, this designation is therefore highly misleading. Interestingly, the brand on its homepage, apart from classifying the fragrance as “Citrus-Chypre,” makes no further reference to the term chypre, but speaks of an “extra fresh trail, citrusy and long lasting.” Only in the ingredient listing do patchouli (5% content) and rose (1% content) appear, two typical chypre components that, as I said, are not perceptible to me. In the detailed listing of the ingredients, Evernia Prunastri Extract is also listed, also known as oakmoss. Thus, almost all pillars of a chypre are present here, it just doesn’t smell like one. It is a very simply composed orange scent that exhibits remarkable longevity and pleasantly present sillage. From my perspective, these are - alongside the successful harmonization - two out of three positive characteristics that I attribute to this perfume. The third arises in this long course, as there are no unpleasant developments of the ingredients, which speaks for their quality. The scent is a consistent, long, calm flow. But - perceivable - complexity looks different. Therefore, I am overall somewhat disillusioned, as I had a corresponding expectation due to the brand image and hoped for more.

**Conclusion:**
By the way, there is a wonderful, watery mandarin scent from the brand Acca Kappa, ‘Green Mandarin’, which for me achieves almost the same profile and is even more convincing in the fruit note, only lasts significantly shorter and radiates much less. And costs a fraction of the price. This means: One should not expect a particularly refined, surprising scent or even a niche gem here, in my opinion.