Iris Luviane 2020 Parfum

There's a kind of irony here: I, an outspoken iris worshipper and almost a detractor of violets in perfumery, was seduced without resistance by Luviane violets, whereas this iris doesn't really resonate with me. Frankly, I think it's too natural. :)

The opening is slightly citrusy, then a classic, rootsy-buttery iris quickly takes over. A somewhat similar iris note I recently encountered in Citta di Kyoto (Santa Maria Novella). What I don't love about this type of iris is that, while not sweet per se, it seems somewhat saccharized to me. I get also a whiff of menthol and something balsamic, a little bit honeyed, maybe frankincense oil (olibanum)?

In the late drydown, when the iris begins to lose its contours, something fresh-citrusy unexpectedly returns. It's the "swan song", the stage I like the most, but sadly the fragrance has already become just a skin scent.

Medium persistence, discreet but noticeable presence, it's fine, it's noble, it exudes femininity, just not for me.