Oud Maison Francis Kurkdjian 2012 Eau de Parfum

Once again, here is an "Oud" fragrance that Andy Tauer and Vero Kern would dismiss in outrage - and I agree with them, at least partially, as it has arrived on that incredible wave of Oud that has now splashed into almost every household. Moreover, it is unspeakably, or rather: outrageously expensive.
Whether there is actually "Oud" in it this time, or just the supposed Cypriol and whatever else bases (so-called "bases" are mini perfumes from various suppliers that create a specific accord and thus become components of many formulas) remains to be seen; it is claimed that the aforementioned Oud comes from Laos "...where it grows in its purest, rarest, and most expensive form."
Well then, let those who want to believe it do so; I’ll take it as it is.

Not too long ago, I would have scorned this fragrance anyway: Oud/Aoud/Oudh and at this price: no thanks! But since Françis Kurkdjian's "Lumière Noire" (for both men and women), I have become more attentive - his works truly have class, are original, and possess an unmistakable fingerprint: three criteria that, unfortunately, are rarely found together.
And once again: "Oud" smells fantastic, completely different, and is a typical Kurkdjian. He confided to "Vogue": "...actually, I prefer to create something new. That's why I initially didn't agree with the idea of creating an Oud fragrance. Also because I don't actually like the smell. That's why I perfected it with olfactory accessories. An oriental fragrance, seen through a French lens, that's my Oud."

He has succeeded. However, seasoned Oud lovers may complain that he has not succeeded precisely because, although the Oud is at the center here, it is not - as so often - the dominating force. No, this Oud is tamed and contained - a civilized Oud. Françis Kurkdjian has polished and refined it, and nestled it in an olfactory environment that makes it shine. His Oud has a fine texture, silky and almost transparent, yet surprisingly present and intense, just not bulky and coarse (similar to what Bertrand Duchaufour achieved with "Oud Shamash"). The medically scented penetrance that many perceive (and lament) in other cases is missing here, although it is not completely absent: it is still there, just significantly toned down, quieter in tone, or in other words - streamlined. Likewise, any animalistic aspects that make fragrances like "Aoud Cuir d’Arabie" or "Arooq al Oud" unbearable for me are absent. There are also no indolic notes (no orange blossom and no jasmine in sight) and no sweaty nuances (think of L’Artisan's "Al Oudh").
Françis Kurkdjian's "Oud" is truly a tamed Oud, a civilized one, or to use an Anglo-American term for which there is no equivalent in German: a "sophisticated" Oud.

Especially the elemi resin that shifts between earthy-woody and fresh-green, as well as the bitter-spicy saffron, contribute to the perception of this typical Oud fragrance as if it were wearing an elegant, tailored haute couture gown for the first time. Purists may lament this, but I myself (not a declared fan of Oud in general) find it refreshing, even in a way intoxicating. For the first time, I experience an Oud fragrance that is not loud and exhausting, but cultured and hitting the right note - this Oud finally has manners, very good ones indeed, and is dressed in the finest fabric.
Yet for all its tailoring, "Oud" is still a sensual fragrance, one that flatters the senses and embraces them. Not that it heats them up erotically; it is too "sophisticated" for that, no, the senses (or better: my senses) perceive it as incredibly soft, not necessarily fluffy, rather silky-soft, while being radiant and penetrating.
Its presence is confident and lasting, without being overwhelming and aggressive.
The longevity is fantastic!

As for the olfactory accessories mentioned by Mr. Kurkdjian, they are quite manageable: I have already mentioned elemi and saffron, light citrus nuances, a bit of rose, and a warm, amber-tinged woody base are also recognizable. Everything is, as always, wonderfully amalgamated (in this, he is a true master!), so that the fragrance does not fall apart for a second. Throughout its entirety, it remains dense and consistent.

All in all, I have absolutely no complaints about this fragrance, except that its price - as mentioned - is more than adventurous. But as in the case of "Chypre Palatin," "Oud Shamash," "Puredistance M," or "L’Heure Fougueuse," there are fragrances for which I am (almost) willing to pay any price, albeit gritting my teeth - they are that good.

PS: Recently, I wore "Oud" to my little sister's wedding, and the fragrance was simply - perfect!