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Lumière Noire Femme (Eau de Parfum) by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Lumière Noire Femme 2009 Eau de Parfum

Caecilie
06/10/2016 - 05:04 AM
21
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10Scent 9Longevity 7Sillage 9Bottle

Indescribably feminine!

It is interesting how differently fragrances can affect people, as I see that this scent has not been received very well so far.
Honestly, I have been searching for a scent like this for a long time, one that is floral, clear, not piercing, warm and profound, yet not too oriental, and simply elegantly and femininely suitable for everyday wear. For me, this is Lumière Noire pour Femme, which I am fortunate enough to test extensively thanks to the decant from a generous Parfumo member.
As soon as I had the scent sprayed on a test strip in one of the upscale perfumeries downtown last week, I realized within seconds: Oh, this is great! A clear yet pleasantly soft rose immediately wafted into my nose, enveloped in a profound, floral-spicy-elegant aura. I quickly had the scent applied to my wrist, which for me as an allergy sufferer is an almost impulsive action. (Of course, I had checked the ingredient list beforehand to ensure there was no Coumarin or Oakmoss, to which I am allergic.)
On my other wrist, I had "À la Rose" from the same perfumer sprayed for comparison and then left the store. On my way from the Fressgass to the Hauptwache, I couldn't shake off the scent from my left wrist. "Lumière Noire" unfolded more and more beautifully for me with each passing minute:
The rose is joined by cumin, which develops on me like musk, making the scent more sensual, earthy, and soft. Fortunately, I hardly perceive the pimento, as I smell no sharpness; instead, patchouli and daffodil blend in organically and unobtrusively, and jasmine reaches my nose, even though it is not listed. Through the interplay of the individual notes, an interesting dark veil gradually settles over this floral composition, making the scent mysterious and elegant. The fragrance somewhat reminds me of Lalique's "Encre Noire pour Elle," only Kurkdjian's "Lumière Noire" smells much more natural, less sweet, and softer to my nose. Oh yes, and the "À la Rose" on my right wrist can just pack it up....
After my extensive city stroll, I treated myself to a salad with grilled salmon strips at my favorite lunch restaurant and kept smelling my left wrist even while eating, although the food was very delicious...
The longevity for me is about 6-8 hours, and I would describe the sillage as medium strong.
A charming scent that is simply a dream for me as a lover of floral, not too sweet fragrances with depth! Highly recommended for feminine women in their prime!
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Addendum: Although I have already received some very nice responses to my text, I must now add a note of caution. When I applied a bit more of the perfume today out of excitement, i.e., also sprayed some on my clothing, the scent shifted a bit more towards the heavy-sweet side. Perhaps it is due to the warm weather, but after this experience, "Lumière Noire" remains an interesting scent for me, but it is no longer a candidate for purchase. What a pity.
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APPENDIX: My addendum was perhaps just a fleeting impression of the day, which I must revise, as I have now worn "Lumière Noire" several more times over the past few days, including partially on my clothing - and - voila - it smells blissfully again!
Perhaps it was indeed the weather that made it seem too sweet to me that day, which was extremely sultry-warm-humid.
And I am so incredibly happy about this wonderful modern chypre scent, which simply smells warm-floral-feminine and "très parisienne" on me! In the drydown, I even catch a hint of powdery leather, which reminds me of Paloma Picasso's "Mon Parfum" and completely dismisses the suspicion of too much sweetness.
I have a birthday coming up soon.......
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11 Comments
AlysanneAlysanne 8 years ago
That sounds really good, and I’d love to get to know it now - even though I’m usually not easily impressed by floral scents. Great comment that sparks curiosity! I also think adding the updates is very good and helpful.
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MogwaiMogwai 8 years ago
1
Very nicely described, including the additions. I've often experienced that fragrances can smell different in warm temperatures, often heavier. I really like that!
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StrehliwoodStrehliwood 8 years ago
A magnificent scent - truly "indescribably feminine" ...^^
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PontNeufPontNeuf 8 years ago
I was hoping the comments here would confirm a similarity to Gucci's lost masterpiece L'Arte di Gucci. I'm still looking for a suitable replacement. If it smells like Paloma Picasso, that's definitely a direction I could like.
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CaecilieCaecilie 9 years ago
I'm definitely not an expert. Regarding the Chypre classification, I took "Fragrantica" at its word. If the scent isn't a "Chypre," I'd be curious to know how it should be categorized. Floral-woody-musk? Sweetness is perceived differently by everyone - what’s sweet for one person might not be for another. I also don't like overly sweet fragrances, but I don't find this one particularly sweet; for example, I think Narciso R. For Her is at least just as sweet. Cheers!
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TurandotTurandot 9 years ago
It's definitely not a chypre. But warm-floral-feminine is spot on, and that's where the problem lies for me. Way too sweet, I agree with Florblanca on that. Unfortunately, F.K. always goes for the heavy-handed approach with his fragrances.
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CaecilieCaecilie 9 years ago
Thanks for all the nice replies, I'm still really excited about the scent...
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Sweetsmell75Sweetsmell75 9 years ago
1
Great comment... after my first encounter with cumin in a perfume yesterday, that wouldn't be a test candidate for me ;) Consolation prize for you!
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SeeroseSeerose 9 years ago
It feels too close to Rose Ikenan/Hermés and Aqua Universalis for me - somehow. But: Well described, glad I already know it.
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VeroniqueVeronique 9 years ago
I agree with you - a very lovely scent!
Very nicely described!
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MargamotteMargamotte 9 years ago
Excellent comment. You can really feel your enthusiasm piece by piece - and it makes you want to check out the fragrance too. And congratulations on finding what you were looking for. P.S. "À la Rose" also won me over. I was really taken by Baccarat, but I'm a bit torn at the moment.
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