(untitled) Maison Margiela 2010

When Daniela Andrier created the Prada fragrances Infusion d'Iris, Infusion d'Homme, or Infusion de Vétiver, she was just practicing - (untitled) is her masterpiece! The common handwriting is unmistakable, but while the Pradas come across as extremely noble and skillful, they are still a bit tame. (untitled), on the other hand, is truly surprisingly different: the opening is herb-green, almost zesty, then the appearance of incense gives the fragrance a slightly crypt-like twist, and in combination with the boxwood-galbanum green, it spreads that special smoky, almost ash-like note. At this stage, I perceive the fragrance as rather masculine, which I really like, because I now know how it continues: the smoky-green-ashy aspect remains, but then it beautifully merges with a hint of musk and jasmine (which I don't really perceive as such, but which probably adds a very slight sweetness) on the skin, ultimately even taking on a powdery-creamy twist. All in all, simply a brilliant composition that, to my nose, is a testament to the highest perfumer art.
For me, a truly classy fragrance! Completely non-floral, spicy-smoky yet soft, striking in its uniqueness and certainly absolutely stunning on men's skin!