(untitled) l'eau Maison Margiela 2011

"(untitled) l'eau" is anything but a thin, washed-out little water that one might suspect with the addition of "L'Eau" (not without reason). Rather, it is a powerful, wonderfully complex, and wide-ranging citrus composition that spans its spectrum from earthy to green-orange-yellow to minty and floral notes.

Right from the start, mandarin and lemon are not experienced as a flat-citrusy "fresh!!"-attack but rather as a bitter, slightly sour, and above all aromatic-juicy and rather dark-deep tones. Mint rounds this off and supports it very smoothly and pleasantly in conjunction with a combined note that strongly reminds one of the multifaceted scent of various aromatic green plant leaves crushed between the fingers, all those fresh, lush green, slightly bright, juicy-aromatic leaves along the way, creating a sort of cross-section or potpourri. Orange blossom harmoniously continues the juicy mandarin note into the floral realm.

The Buchu plant (Agathosma betulina or crenulata) is a flowering plant from the large family of the rue family (Rutaceae), which includes all citrus fruits, for example. Its oily extract is traditionally used to flavor teas and spirits, and its scent and taste are said to resemble that of black currant. Although I am not personally familiar with Buchu, this dark, slightly sweet black currant note is well perceivable as a gently rounding accord that expands downwards. The woody, slightly smoky, quite warm, and pleasantly rounded base note, on which the fragrance surprisingly lasts a long time, can ultimately be attributed to the components of cedarwood and gentle incense not mentioned here.

Not an overwhelmingly new or unique scent, but very appealing and harmoniously rounded for its distinct citrus-mintiness, shining with deep and beautiful complexity. It strikes me as a somewhat deeper, denser, more down-to-earth relative of the lighter, transparent, floating "Un Jardin..." fragrances from Hermes; in the impression of the simultaneously citrusy and floral composition, I do see similarities, and I mean that as a compliment ;-)