Parfum Couture - Denis Durand for M. Micallef M. Micallef 2013
8
Portrait of a Lady Lovers Take Note...
Le Parfum Denis Durand Couture opens with a mild cinnamon spiced dull orange with jammy rose in support. As the composition transitions to its early heart the dulled orange leaves with the mild spice remaining, as the jammy rose takes over as star, now joined by moderately strong patchouli rising from the base as co-star, warmed by a slightly indolic orange blossom and sweet honey supporting duo. During the late dry-down the rose and patchouli tandem slowly recedes as it is tempered by slightly powdery amber and moderately animalic musk. Projection is average and longevity excellent at about 12 hours on skin.
The warm spiced dull orange open to Le Parfum Denis Durand Couture (try and say that five times fast) while certainly pleasant smelling is probably the least appealing aspect of the composition, but as soon as the jammy rose enters the equation early-on things get good, *really* good fast. The jammy rose and patchouli tandem in the early heart immediately reminded me of Portrait of a Lady, and indeed the whole composition keeps to the spirit of that great Ropion masterpiece while still maintaining its own charm and identity. One key note of interest is the orange blossom that is used brilliantly as balancing support to the extremely high quality rose and patchouli tandem with just traces of its indolic facets bringing out the mild cinnamon spice perfectly. As the composition progresses the honey and musk join other animalics resembling castoreum, smoothing the composition considerably as time passes, with slightly sweet amber adding additional warmth late. The whole thing comes off amazingly well with perfect transitions from top to bottom and is completely unisex despite the composition being officially marketed to women. The bottom line is the $195 per 50ml bottle Le Parfum Denis Durand Couture may not have a name that comes easily off the tongue and is not a replacement for Portrait of a Lady (nothing is), but this outstanding 4.5 star out of 5 composition is the closest thing to its spirit I have sniffed to date and should absolutely be on any jammy rose lover's must try or buy list -- it just got to the top of mine.
The warm spiced dull orange open to Le Parfum Denis Durand Couture (try and say that five times fast) while certainly pleasant smelling is probably the least appealing aspect of the composition, but as soon as the jammy rose enters the equation early-on things get good, *really* good fast. The jammy rose and patchouli tandem in the early heart immediately reminded me of Portrait of a Lady, and indeed the whole composition keeps to the spirit of that great Ropion masterpiece while still maintaining its own charm and identity. One key note of interest is the orange blossom that is used brilliantly as balancing support to the extremely high quality rose and patchouli tandem with just traces of its indolic facets bringing out the mild cinnamon spice perfectly. As the composition progresses the honey and musk join other animalics resembling castoreum, smoothing the composition considerably as time passes, with slightly sweet amber adding additional warmth late. The whole thing comes off amazingly well with perfect transitions from top to bottom and is completely unisex despite the composition being officially marketed to women. The bottom line is the $195 per 50ml bottle Le Parfum Denis Durand Couture may not have a name that comes easily off the tongue and is not a replacement for Portrait of a Lady (nothing is), but this outstanding 4.5 star out of 5 composition is the closest thing to its spirit I have sniffed to date and should absolutely be on any jammy rose lover's must try or buy list -- it just got to the top of mine.