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Bold, Contemporary Vetiver
One of the defining pillars of contemporary perfumery is the bold use of woody-amber molecules—powerhouses like Ambroxan, Ambermax, Ambrocenide, Amber Xtreme, Amberwood, and others. These ingredients are prized for their ability to amplify projection, sillage, and longevity. Their sheer strength and distinctive character can be challenging to tame, often dominating compositions unless skillfully balanced. Yet, some perfumers embrace this very intensity, allowing these materials to shine alongside the central theme. Jorge Lee's Sultan Vetiver is a good example of this genre.
The fragrance opens with an unexpectedly sharp, soapy brightness—almost aldehydic in nature. As it settles, a vivid green and peppery Neroli emerges, bolstered by a generous splash of Bergamot. The soapiness deepens with pronounced anise notes: green, herbal, and subtly sweet. This shimmering veil delicately wraps around the core—an assertive, multifaceted vetiver.
The vetiver here is no one-note wonder. It unfolds gradually, revealing a rich tapestry of nuances: green, woody, anisic, fresh, rooty, smoky, resinous, and earthy. But the real sleight of hand lies in its transformation. What begins as a classical vetiver evolves into something strikingly modern, thanks to the infusion of woody-ambers. These “steroidal” molecules crank the knob to eleven, introducing facets that are extra dry, ambery, metallic, animalic, and leathery. The initial blast may feel aggressive, but it mellows beautifully over time.
If you're averse to woody-ambers, proceed with caution. But if you’re a vetiver enthusiast seeking something bold and contemporary, Sultan Vetiver is a compelling contender.
8.5/10
The fragrance opens with an unexpectedly sharp, soapy brightness—almost aldehydic in nature. As it settles, a vivid green and peppery Neroli emerges, bolstered by a generous splash of Bergamot. The soapiness deepens with pronounced anise notes: green, herbal, and subtly sweet. This shimmering veil delicately wraps around the core—an assertive, multifaceted vetiver.
The vetiver here is no one-note wonder. It unfolds gradually, revealing a rich tapestry of nuances: green, woody, anisic, fresh, rooty, smoky, resinous, and earthy. But the real sleight of hand lies in its transformation. What begins as a classical vetiver evolves into something strikingly modern, thanks to the infusion of woody-ambers. These “steroidal” molecules crank the knob to eleven, introducing facets that are extra dry, ambery, metallic, animalic, and leathery. The initial blast may feel aggressive, but it mellows beautifully over time.
If you're averse to woody-ambers, proceed with caution. But if you’re a vetiver enthusiast seeking something bold and contemporary, Sultan Vetiver is a compelling contender.
8.5/10