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Top Review
Tuberose, not just a show-off this time
The idea is beautiful, the execution successful, the result convincing - at least to me. "Ombre Indigo" is once again one of those fragrances that receives plenty of praise. Wherever you click among the numerous reviews online: positive reactions everywhere.
Rightly so, in my opinion, because this fragrance truly has character.
However, amidst all the praise, there remains a slight disappointment - only for me, mind you, as I have been hoping for years for a dark, heavy tuberose scent for men that contrasts the lush, narcotic floral nuances with bitter wood, strong leather, and earthy-green vetiver.
Et voilà, here it is, or so one might think, because these very notes shape the fragrance (along with a few others, like saffron, incense, and plum). Unfortunately, it does not smell as I envision it. Sure, the tuberose is there, quite pronounced even. In the background, it blooms. But what takes center stage is a bit too loud for me: the incense is too dominant, the vetiver too dark green (I would have preferred it lighter, fresher), and the saffron - as much as I usually like it - is actually unnecessary.
Thus, a sort of fragrant screen unfolds in front of the wonderful tuberose, which lets almost none of its seductive qualities through. All the indolic nuances are successfully masked in this way, so that nothing remains of the narcotic effect of the white flower, or at least almost nothing.
But at least, a further step in the direction I hoped for has been taken. Others, like "Vierges et Toreros," have also boldly moved ahead, as have Neil Morris with "Flowers for Men - Gardenia" or Arquiste with "Boutonniere No.7," both of which, while not tuberose scents, are quite closely related as gardenia fragrances.
And yet, as beautiful as "Ombre Indigo" is, as wonderfully smoky, resinous, and spicy - I feel a bit sorry for the rather concealed tuberose. It could have used a bit more space and deserves it.
However, aside from my wishes and hopes, there is almost nothing to criticize about this fragrance. The projection is right, the longevity is just as good, the scent develops, although not particularly exciting and in an unexpected direction, but it does not dissipate, simply becoming linearly quieter. No, the direction is immediately recognizable - it takes a long and leisurely journey into a dark oriental corner.
But those who expect a certain minimum amount of sweetness under the label "oriental" might be quite disappointed by "Ombre Indigo." There is nothing sweet here, or only just enough to make all the bitterness bearable. Because it is indeed bitter, dry, almost rough, but still not scratchy.
Mylène Alran has presented a truly beautiful work with "Ombre Indigo." One that fits wonderfully into the portfolio of the company "Olfactive Studio," alongside "Chambre Noire," a distant relative.
Why the fragrance had to be associated with the color "blue" and accompanied by a somewhat kitschy photo remains a mystery to me, but I don't really care. The fragrance needed a name, and a picture - Nomen est Omen - had to come along too...
So if I set aside the somewhat forced naming and meaning, as well as my wishes regarding tuberose scents for men, I must candidly admit: this fragrance is exceedingly successful.
A smoky-oriental leather scent of exceptional quality, suitable for both men and women, with unfortunately somewhat underrepresented tuberose. Which brings us back to the beginning....
Rightly so, in my opinion, because this fragrance truly has character.
However, amidst all the praise, there remains a slight disappointment - only for me, mind you, as I have been hoping for years for a dark, heavy tuberose scent for men that contrasts the lush, narcotic floral nuances with bitter wood, strong leather, and earthy-green vetiver.
Et voilà, here it is, or so one might think, because these very notes shape the fragrance (along with a few others, like saffron, incense, and plum). Unfortunately, it does not smell as I envision it. Sure, the tuberose is there, quite pronounced even. In the background, it blooms. But what takes center stage is a bit too loud for me: the incense is too dominant, the vetiver too dark green (I would have preferred it lighter, fresher), and the saffron - as much as I usually like it - is actually unnecessary.
Thus, a sort of fragrant screen unfolds in front of the wonderful tuberose, which lets almost none of its seductive qualities through. All the indolic nuances are successfully masked in this way, so that nothing remains of the narcotic effect of the white flower, or at least almost nothing.
But at least, a further step in the direction I hoped for has been taken. Others, like "Vierges et Toreros," have also boldly moved ahead, as have Neil Morris with "Flowers for Men - Gardenia" or Arquiste with "Boutonniere No.7," both of which, while not tuberose scents, are quite closely related as gardenia fragrances.
And yet, as beautiful as "Ombre Indigo" is, as wonderfully smoky, resinous, and spicy - I feel a bit sorry for the rather concealed tuberose. It could have used a bit more space and deserves it.
However, aside from my wishes and hopes, there is almost nothing to criticize about this fragrance. The projection is right, the longevity is just as good, the scent develops, although not particularly exciting and in an unexpected direction, but it does not dissipate, simply becoming linearly quieter. No, the direction is immediately recognizable - it takes a long and leisurely journey into a dark oriental corner.
But those who expect a certain minimum amount of sweetness under the label "oriental" might be quite disappointed by "Ombre Indigo." There is nothing sweet here, or only just enough to make all the bitterness bearable. Because it is indeed bitter, dry, almost rough, but still not scratchy.
Mylène Alran has presented a truly beautiful work with "Ombre Indigo." One that fits wonderfully into the portfolio of the company "Olfactive Studio," alongside "Chambre Noire," a distant relative.
Why the fragrance had to be associated with the color "blue" and accompanied by a somewhat kitschy photo remains a mystery to me, but I don't really care. The fragrance needed a name, and a picture - Nomen est Omen - had to come along too...
So if I set aside the somewhat forced naming and meaning, as well as my wishes regarding tuberose scents for men, I must candidly admit: this fragrance is exceedingly successful.
A smoky-oriental leather scent of exceptional quality, suitable for both men and women, with unfortunately somewhat underrepresented tuberose. Which brings us back to the beginning....
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3 Comments
NightFighter 11 years ago
Thank you!
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Yatagan 11 years ago
I feel the same way. I'm also looking for floral scents, especially tuberose fragrances for men. I don't think I've found the holy grail here either, even though the scent itself is nice.
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Gerry 11 years ago
Interesting, I wouldn't have thought of tuberose. Maybe that's also because the incense in this fragrance is too prominent for me. Even though I like incense, I find it overdone here.
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