Héliotrope Olivier Durbano 2012 Eau de Parfum

Perhaps one should not get caught up in the gemstone nomenclature of Oliver Urbano's fragrance series when judging the scents and draw no conclusions about the fragrance from the respective names.
Even the scent of the flower Heliotrope is equally just a forced concession to the name.
At first, I smell a woody and smoky blend, spicy. Above all, there is initially a bitter citrus note.
Then for a while, a pleasant floral mixture scents the air, takes the lead for a time, and becomes softer, quieter, and creamier. Time and again, it smells of woods and resins. "Héliotrope" is an oscillating fragrance.
Because one or another "fragrance group" keeps rising to my nose.
What astonishes me about "Héliotrope" is the distinct saffron note. I often have difficulties with saffron in fragrances because I cannot identify it.
But here I suddenly smelled something that felt very familiar to me. But not from fragrances. I had to search in my fragrance memory for a while and then I remembered the smell and taste of saffron rice, which was flavored with saffron oil. For this, saffron is macerated in oil and this oil is used for cooking.
I found the smell pleasant, but I did not like the taste.
In "Héliotrope," saffron is a fragrance note that gives the perfume something special and pleasant. Together with the creamy musk, the floral blend, and the repeatedly receding spicy and fougère fragrance components, "Héliotrope" ultimately develops into a gentler and more lovely scent. At some point, a distinct sweet mandarin note also announces itself, rounding off the fragrance.
There are still other ingredients perceptible to me, and I do not want to bore you with their enumeration.
"Héliotrope" is nonetheless a light and transparent modern fragrance. I only find it chaotic and unstructured at the beginning. The longer I wear it, the more uniform "Héliotrope" becomes.
Perhaps this is not a fragrance that one feels drawn to after two tests.
At first, I thought it was a chaotic, arbitrary experimental scent that I could not relate to. But gradually I am beginning to like it.
However, at the price, it will probably stay that way.
Regarding its classification as a unisex fragrance, I am undecided. At first, "Héliotrope" is clearly unisex for me. But the longer it is on my skin, the more it develops into the feminine.