Gardenia
Jasmine sambac
Vanilla
02/07/2025
Jones
22 Reviews
Jones
Top Review
9
She Belongs There by Olivine Atelier
She Belongs There is a fresher take on the heady white floral theme typically pursued by Olivine. Opening with the peachy-jasmine flutter of frangipani mingling with the delicate cream cheese of gardenia, it feels delicate and crisp. But She Belongs There is more complex than its opening bouquet might suggest. The white flower petals eventually droop with heat, losing their crisp edge and melting into a heady mass that points to a more mature sensuality. But the white floral notes retain a beguiling purity. A foamy vanilla note in the heart aerates the florals, giving them a whipped, frothy texture.
A startling mid-performance shift in tone occurs, when the florals begin to smell more like magnolia or champaca than frangipani or gardenia. The floral notes become bright, honeyed, and almost green, with a side of apple peel, as if the milky-rubbery frangipani had suddenly morphed into the magnolia crispness of Guerlain’s L’Instant. On close inspection, there is also a strong pear solvent note, like nail polish remover splashed onto a hot metal pan. This comes across as vaporous and intoxicating, rather than unpleasant. But it is something to note.
The solvent note burns off over time, leaving a very natural-smelling jasmine in its place. Although not as forceful or naturalistic as Jasmin T by Bruno Acampora, this type of jasmine accord will please those who prefer their jasmine classically sweet and full-figured rather than leathery or fecal. In the drydown, the jasmine develops a slightly sour edge, and a hint of rubbery smoke appears, possibly tuberose. The fact that She Belongs There cycles through so many different phases and does so with grace marks it out as special. A white floral with this many shades of nuance is difficult to achieve under normal circumstances, but to manage it in an oil is a remarkable feat.
A startling mid-performance shift in tone occurs, when the florals begin to smell more like magnolia or champaca than frangipani or gardenia. The floral notes become bright, honeyed, and almost green, with a side of apple peel, as if the milky-rubbery frangipani had suddenly morphed into the magnolia crispness of Guerlain’s L’Instant. On close inspection, there is also a strong pear solvent note, like nail polish remover splashed onto a hot metal pan. This comes across as vaporous and intoxicating, rather than unpleasant. But it is something to note.
The solvent note burns off over time, leaving a very natural-smelling jasmine in its place. Although not as forceful or naturalistic as Jasmin T by Bruno Acampora, this type of jasmine accord will please those who prefer their jasmine classically sweet and full-figured rather than leathery or fecal. In the drydown, the jasmine develops a slightly sour edge, and a hint of rubbery smoke appears, possibly tuberose. The fact that She Belongs There cycles through so many different phases and does so with grace marks it out as special. A white floral with this many shades of nuance is difficult to achieve under normal circumstances, but to manage it in an oil is a remarkable feat.
