[¹⁶S] Sulphur One of those / nu_be 2013

What is that horrible smell? If you’ve never smelled Sulfur, it’s hard to describe how awful it is. Most of those who have it describe it as a rotten egg smell, and so do I. That smell is probably hydrogen sulfide, commonly called Sulfur. The latter is a mineral that exists in nature and is widely found in water reserves. As long as sufficient oxygen is present, it exists in a combined form with oxygen and presents no odor problems. However, in the absence of oxygen, there may be conditions that convert the combined form of oxygen to a mixed format with hydrogen, i.e., hydrogen sulfide, which creates a compound with a distinctive rotten egg odor. While this odor is annoying, the water is safe for consumption. There are healing spas where you drink water rich in Sulfur. Oh man, you must wonder what Sulfur [¹⁶S] smells like.
I hope the rotten eggs smell of Sulfur not inspired perfumer Antoine Lie, who’s the nose behind Hydrogen and Oxygen. Keep calm and read on. Happily, it does not smell of Sulfur at all, despite the telling name. I sensed almost complete denial of what the perfume name and chemical character of Sulfur could suggest. Sulfur [¹⁶S] features a contrast between spices and woods with balmy, aromatic, resinous, leathery, mossy, and woody accords and represents the satanic spirit. A juice from the shadow, the gloomy afterlife where the shadows walk, a satanic elixir. Nothing is pure; instead, it evokes infernal potions, it’s fire and darkness.

Sulfur [¹⁶S] welcomes me with an explosion of aromatic and citrusy accords. The Hesperides are present in the very first moments. The bitterness of the grapefruit peel feels good, with its natural sulfur sort. Still, as soon as it recedes, it gives way to a piquant black pepper that lasts just a while before a tremendous aromatic scent, really tremendous, pops in, rich in mentholated and balsamic rosemary drowned in boozy grapefruit juice. A minty facet might come from the black angelica, reminiscent of wool cloth and mothballs, and sometimes akin to the Vicks VapoRub ointment, while the spicy aspect results in cold and dark. Indeed, a curl of warmth comes from the cinnamon bark. The dustiness from cinnamon and angelica acts as exciting accents. Together they create a dusty sound. The initial stage is smothering, stiff, slightly boozy, and intoxicates the senses. Something quite elementary emerges, a tiny mineral and a tad earthy.

Now that the initial blast has cleared the ground, a new dance begins. The rhythm changes, and Sulfur [¹⁶S] releases its more animal notes, costus, and castoreum that wrap themselves in a sensual embrace and add their indisputably warm muskiness, leatheriness, and wet presence, supported by the sweetness of opoponax and myrrh. The latter adds a deeply resinous touch to the heart, almost touching an oriental profile.

The dry-down is smoother, simple, but very refined and extremely well blended. Smoky and tart cedar and guaiac woods simmer with heady balms, softened by salty oakmoss and naughty patchouli. The woods are steamy and heat like the one inside a sauna. The resulting concoction brings the scent down to the deepest earth. I also get the earthy vetiver, not yet listed here but mentioned in some perfume’s magazines.

The body surrenders to the breath of the inner soul. All in all, it is a perfume that doesn’t smell like Sulfur but has sulfur properties hidden in its soul. Sulfur [¹⁶S] is very masculine, indeed manly. It is a pleasant, safe, discreet warm weather scent with great versatility. A well-crafted fresh scent with tangible spicy notes. Ozone freshness and cut grass, wet salt, and spilled pepper. To acknowledge Sulfur [¹⁶S] and all the other One of Those elements, you required an unconventional and brave approach, a free and open-minded spirit.

This review was based on a 100ml bottle I own since March 2021.

-Elysium