2. Nawab of Oudh Parfum by Ormonde Jayne

2. Nawab of Oudh Parfum 2012

Terra
02/08/2014 - 09:43 AM
Top Review
8Scent

Different, interesting, experimental, and yet wonderful

Nawab of Oudh - somehow I expected a beautiful interpretation of oud, similar to ones I have probably smelled in other variations. However, Geza Schön has taken a different path here, which harmonizes grandly with oud.

The aldehydes in the top note bring something quite floral-green that cannot be clearly assigned. So far, I only know of an oud-aldehyde combination from Oud-for-Love, but that is quite different. Alongside this, there is something quite spicy, probably cardamom and allspice. Floral-spicy is actually typically oriental, but here it is presented in a completely different way, solely with the help of the aldehydes. The green aldehydes and the orange make the scent quite fresh and radiant; there is nothing heavy, dark, or musty here. An oud that would work in any season. Balsamic notes join in, making everything soft and delicate, yet the scent always remains slightly peppery, green, and fresh.

In my opinion, Nawab of Oudh, like Oud Shamash or Trayee, does not simply belong to one of the many fragrances of the oud hype. It is a great work of art in which oud was not just used to launch another fragrance with this note, but to create a unique and grand scent. Geza Schön, whose works I previously found too restrained, has truly impressed me here.

In the heart, I briefly smell a somewhat too dominant floral note, which is only intensified by the aldehydes. But then the development continues in a progressively calmer, oriental-modern direction. The base consists of a combination of allspice, cinnamon, amber, musk, and vetiver, as I believe I can discern. Green-spicy-soft-balsamic. These are aspects that a good Thai oud can also exhibit. It seems to me that Geza Schön has tried to interpret particularly beautiful aspects of such an oud with this fragrance, highlighting the nuances that many find bothersome. Nawab of Oudh does not really smell like oud, but it is still somehow authentic. Different from the usual, but totally beautiful and surely interesting even for oud haters.
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10 Comments
TerraTerra 11 years ago
Maybe I need a second sample too :D. Although I haven't encountered any misfills so far, at least to my knowledge.
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KleineHexeKleineHexe 12 years ago
This perfume is definitely wearable for me. It's just a matter of where the sample comes from. Larbormaus kindly sent me a sample from her original bottle after my initial disappointment, and it's really good.
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KleineHexeKleineHexe 12 years ago
Experimental and artistic, that sums it up well. Not a wearable option for me.
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AltheaAlthea 12 years ago
I completely agree with you. @ Lilienfeld: not thin, transparent :))
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LilienfeldLilienfeld 12 years ago
No trouble at all, not from me :D
I find the Oud from OJ too soft, but I'm not an OJ fan, too thin :D
Oud for Love is CLASSIC, beautifully bold Oud :)
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TerraTerra 12 years ago
Oh, I'm going to get in trouble for this comment - but I find the Guerlain Oud quite boring, or it's just not my thing. However, I do think that aldehydes can definitely harmonize with oud - especially in Oud for Love.
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LilienfeldLilienfeld 12 years ago
Yeah, aldehydes and oud, what a weird combo, kind of like a puffed-up shoe :))
But seriously, Guerlain does it with Songes... the whole line is like that too...
weird :D
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LabormausLabormaus 12 years ago
I'm totally in love with the scent! :-)
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TerraTerra 12 years ago
No - 80-90%. Over time, I could find the aldehyde bomb a bit overwhelming. But you should definitely give it a try. It's a really great scent that's beautiful and just different.
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PlutoPluto 12 years ago
So a full score (would you rate it again)? Wishlist!
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