2. Nawab of Oudh Parfum Ormonde Jayne 2012

The scent progression is pure suspense; no story is needed here.

This is the 4th Ormonde fragrance I get to test (thanks to the lovely Cafenoir). This scent is also exciting, surprising, and despite a well-known and often interpreted fragrance pyramid, it is quite different. For me, it is a small work of art that clearly shows its forge.

Here we go :)
The top notes open the fragrance in a truly unusual way; zesty bergamot and natural, sun-ripened orange notes are clearly perceptible. Aldehydes and something green, not like grass, more like the juicy leaves of an old, venerable tree, along with a dash of cardamom, give the scent a spicy finish. Something different, unfamiliar, but very interesting. I occasionally had the impression of detecting hints of mint. Clear, bright, and yet beautifully balsamic.

The transition to the heart, after about 40 minutes, is a successful artistic move, and it is enjoyable to follow. In the deep heart, it remains balsamic. It is really difficult to distinguish the individual notes. Overall, a rather extraordinary interpretation of floral, green, spicy freshness. A playful rose takes a central yet subordinate role. One can imagine it like a tightly bound bouquet, where you can perceive the individual ingredients, but for the nose, the entire bouquet is always available. I fancy that I smell the magnolia a bit stronger than the rose, and now and then, somewhat indistinct, warm cinnamon and spicy myrrh products flash up to prevent the flowers from becoming too lush. Nothing is loud, nothing is piercing, nothing is disturbing, and it is somehow not a floral scent.

The soft musk velvet bed on which the bouquet rests can also be sensed in the heart from time to time. After about 2-3 hours, the heart of the fragrance presents itself a bit differently, somehow more playful without losing the seriousness of its adult aura.

The base is also unusually densely woven. I can clearly perceive oudh, but it is integrated in a completely different way. Not dark and resinous and somehow penetrating, but noble, dry, dancing, gray-green glowing. This is how I like agarwood. Flanked by musk and vetiver, it loses any gloominess here and combines excellently with labdanum. Amber plays almost no role here, except that it somehow smooths the base.

But Mr. Schön's craftsmanship surprises not only in the aforementioned. As the base fades, after about 8 hours, the fragrance introduces an unexpected and beautifully soft fadeout. Gradually, a wonderful, delicate, fragile, light pink floral arrangement develops with a distinctly clean creaminess. Wonderful!

This fragrance is a true work of art in versatility, seriousness, and yet playful and youthful in parts. Longevity is easily 10 hours, during which it warms, lifts, comforts, and yet challenges close to the body. It appears extraordinarily noble and is suitable as a good signature scent. For me, it leans more towards a women's fragrance.

Does the fragrance reflect India for me? No, because it is a bit too quiet for that. When I think of the big cities of India, I miss the strong colors and the bustling activity. However, when I look into the hinterland, I can find the proud rulers who wear this extraordinary fragrance. A bit like a sunset behind fertile fields, gnarled trees, and relaxed, happy people who love their homeland.

I like it very, very much. However, the price-performance ratio seems a bit weak to me. For that, I still miss the WOW - the "I absolutely must have it" effect. Add to List "Nice to have, or like a sample" :)

#creamy #balsamic #spicy