Cuoium Orto Parisi 2021

Animalic, unwearable. You can't even mention Cuoium without hearing these adjectives. Admittedly, this isn't an entry-level leather perfume, and I can't deny its pungency either. However, it's complex and well-blended, with multiple facets complementing each other. And - believe it or not - there's some sweetness to it.

It opens with an oily, gasoline-like leather, softened by a gorgeous violet accord. It's a bit powdery and smells like a crossover between lychee, raspberry and rose. While it isn't as sweet as Ombré Leather or as fruity as London, Gualtieri surely acknowledged the giants. Tuscan Leather's ashy undertone can be detected too.

Let's focus on the main star: leather. The leathery feeling is created by combining cade oil and labdanum, which can be off-putting to some. It's earthy and smoky, but also resinous, medicinal and musky. There's a dry woodiness to it, creating a charming contrast between smouldering woods and balsamic amber in the drydown.

Performance is remarkable - it's Orto Parisi after all. It lasts throughout the day, with loud projection for several hours. Having experience in the animalic and leathery departments certainly helps. It might strike you as chemical warfare initially, but give it time. The subtle nuances will show after more wears - especially the violet.