Varon Dandi

Varon Dandy

Parera 1924 Eau de Cologne

My predecessor Cappellusman attributed Varon Dandy a close relationship to the old Austrian Grandseigneur fragrance par excellence, Knize Ten, four years ago. Not only the fact that we are apparently dealing here with a variation of one of my favorite fragrances, but also the circumstance that this is apparently not a tired, late imitation (1924!) made a test inevitable. No, a blind purchase! Just under eight euros for 100ml seems like mockery in light of what is promised, lesser fragrance concentration or not.

From the predictably flimsy cardboard box, I am unfortunately not greeted by the old, rounded bottle design, but the reduced rectangular shape also looks quite good. The plastic cap reveals a classic splash mechanism framed by a metal ring (imagine Old Spice with a slightly larger opening). After all, it is an Eau de Cologne, so why not the cold slap into the hollow hand?

Is Varon Dandy really a fragrance twin to one of the great classics of the twentieth century? No, it may not be a twin. But indeed a close relative. The foundation, the base, the surrounding "air" is very similar, almost identical. But the decor - I don't want to speak of "top note," as this lasts almost until the end with Knize - is not. What with Knize is the infinitely elegant, burning rose along with stone fruit compote, here is an ethereal-alcoholic note that reminds me, not only due to the house's origin, of Spanish Hierbas: gentle, green-spiced anise sweetness. A bit sharper, but still quite elegant (thanks to an indeterminate, "serious flower," as Ms. Konsalik would like to add). Beneath it lies the same strict, slightly birch tar-like leather association accord that evoked the idea of leather back then (and unfortunately hardly does so today). In the base, which sets in for me after about an hour, a soapy leather-musk note finally emerges, which I also appreciate in other fragrances - see my comment on Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme. I can't say it any other way: I am impressed! Bravo!

In all its nobility, less exalted, a bit sharper, "grabbing," and quite restrained in longevity: Not quite the Geheimrat, but perhaps its house servant. On weekends, it is said, he even uses Varon Dandy as aftershave. After all, his salary is more than enough for this extravagant use.