Vétyver Parfums 137 2013

Uncommented Fragrances No. 44

The young woman with water-blue eyes stood aside and observed the scene. The Commissario, who was just being laid to rest, was being lavishly praised by his colleagues: an incorruptible sleuth, an unconventional investigator, and a lone wolf. However, his penchant for solo missions had ultimately led to his downfall.

It seemed all was over. Nevertheless, she had to be cautious. Who could know if he had passed on his investigation results in time before his death, if there were overlooked documents in a desk drawer at his office, or if someone was already on her trail? Her fondness for vetiver fragrances had nearly betrayed her.

For years, she had worn this extraordinary vetiver scent (see I Profumi di Firenze Fresco di Vetiver: Commissario Parfumetti investigates), unknowingly leading the intrusive sleuth Parfumetti onto her trail. It was time to change the fragrance!

But what could a vetiver lover consider? Most vetiver fragrances were designed for men, which was all too evident.

Sooner or later, anyone searching for softer vetivers will come across scents with a high content of vetiveryl acetate or the finer qualities from Haiti or even Réunion. Often, these fragrances, in my experience, have a different character, being somewhat creamy soft, less earthy-green, more subtle, and easier to wear in everyday life. Whether one finds this variant more appealing is a personal decision and often depends on one's mood. However, a certain basic preference for vetiver should also be present for this style. Those who find vetiver too green, too grassy, or perhaps even earthy will not fully warm up to these alternatives either.

Our murderous friend with the water-blue eyes found, - what could be more natural for an Italian woman - an alternative in the portfolio of the Italian manufacturer Monotheme (Vetiver Bourbon) after a short search, but switched just a few weeks later to a rarer, and therefore less conspicuous, fragrance from a French manufacturer that was even better suited for women.

Actually, I promised her to keep this fragrance a secret. After all, it was her preference for extraordinary vetiver scents that had led Commissario Parfumetti onto her trail.

But if I now ask you not to reveal the fragrance, perhaps only to your best friend, your wife, your mother, or your underage children, then I would be willing to break my vow.

In the case of our young protagonist, it is Vetyver by Parfums 137, a smaller manufacturer from France that was evidently designed from the outset as a unisex fragrance.

A spicy-warm note, which becomes noticeable shortly after spraying, takes away the grassy-green consequence that characterizes most vetiver fragrances. The combination with spices (cardamom and coriander are noted) is indeed a rather unusual variant in vetiver fragrances (reference: Timbuktu), hardly perceivable in this clarity otherwise.

The fragrance also receives a clear unisex note through the now commonly included tea accent, which softens the green-earthy character of the vetiver into a subtly light green, thus supporting and balancing the spice components, as well as through the rose. The fragrance possesses something light and buoyant that most vetiver fragrances lack due to their typical grassy and earthy tones. A soft, warm base adds the finishing touch, giving the fragrance a subtle sweetness that does not make Vétyver a feminine scent, but is incredibly wearable for women, while also providing men with a nice alternative to the more robust scents of this genre.

Even though Parfums 137 has not created a major hit with Vétyver, it has resulted in an immensely charming, buoyant, almost cheerful fragrance, a vetiver that, while not a scent revolution, does represent a small scent evolution, preventing a lower rating from me, even if the highest score is out of the question in my view.

Whether this fragrance will stand the test of time, a casual wearer like me can hardly decide. The selection of vetiver fragrances in my collection is too vast. However, for those tempted to test: the fragrances from the brand can be easily ordered in small sizes directly from the manufacturer's website.

Whether the unnamed woman with the water-blue eyes can provide us with lasting information about this fragrance remains to be seen. Let us hope that she does not take too many risks in the future and that you do not betray her.

And Commissario Parfumetti? He rests in peace.