Shandoah (Eau de Toilette) by Jacques Heim

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Shandoah Jacques Heim 1965 Eau de Toilette

8.1 / 10 9 Ratings

A perfume by Jacques Heim for women, released in 1965. The scent is floral-woody. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Main accords

Floral

Woody

Powdery

Green

Spicy

Fragrance Notes

Aldehydes

Floral notes

Fruity notes

Ratings

Scent

8.19 Ratings

Longevity

7.08 Ratings

Sillage

6.67 Ratings

Bottle

8.07 Ratings

Submitted by DonVanVliet · last update on 02/13/2025.

Source-backed & verified

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Reviews

2 in-depth fragrance descriptions

02/09/2019

Interdit
58 Reviews

Interdit

Scent of the 60s

Top notes: fruit note, aldehydes, violet, coriander, Ceylon cardamom, Castilian jasmine absolute
Middle notes: Indian carnation, Turkish rose absolute, Grasse rose absolute and Florentine iris
Base notes: cedar, musk, Indian sandalwood, mousse de chine, Massif Central oakmoss, Indonesian patchouli

02/10/2025

8Scent 7Longevity 7Sillage

Serenissima
1225 Reviews

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Serenissima

Very helpful Review 8

once again on the scent trail

Life in our world of fragrance is never boring, as it leads over time into lesser-known areas, i.e., to scents with stories and history that are unfortunately almost forgotten today, even by my generation.
Fortunately, there are still diligent collectors of these treasures who are kind enough to generously share them as decants or even give away entire flacons.
Thus, they can experience a renaissance here and exude their very own charm.

One of these fragrance treasures is "Shandoah," the Eau de Toilette by Jacques Heim.
But here arises the first question: "Who, pray tell, was Jacques Heim?"
The internet provides information:
Jacques Heim (1899 - 1967) was a well-known fashion designer and costume designer for theater and film in his time.
For many years, he led "La Chambre Syndicale de la Coutiere Parisienne," the fashion school from which André Courrèges, Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint Laurent, and Valentino graduated with distinction.
Here, a circle closes, as they are all well-known to us through perfume creations/brands.
Jacques Heim also created perfumes. The first was released in 1945, and the last scent was listed in 1966.
Names like "J’aime" and "Amour" indicate the fragrance directions.

In 1965, "Shandoah" was launched with its golden-brown, chypre-inspired charm.
Mature, sun-kissed fruits (bergamot and one or another of its citrus siblings as well as velvety peaches) pave the way to an opulent fragrance composition.
The radiance of aldehydes must not be missing, and the allure of violets and rich white jasmine blossoms with their well-known sensual touch is stylishly accented by coriander and cardamom, giving it a spicy and oriental flair.
A classic and rich arrangement of spring and early summer blooms reveals the heart note.
But first, the green-spicy aroma reminds one of branches of hawthorn densely covered with flowers. To those small, closely set flowers that, like those of lily of the valley and jasmine, can smell almost intoxicating and sometimes even repulsive when overripe.
("Little stinkers" is what Meggi and I often called them in our texts back then.)
Here we still meet them in pure white in late April, early May: Well dosed, they provide an interesting contrast in the following bouquet.
Hyacinths aromatically (and often unfortunately also intoxicatingly) and densely pave the way to roses upon roses.
Fragrant May roses from Grasse and Bulgarian as well as Turkish scented roses bloom in lavish abundance, like a medieval rose garden where a troubadour sang songs of longing, love, and fidelity to his lady. Do you hear them?
No bouquet of that time would be complete without spicy carnations and proud irises, which remind one of the early summer magic of fully bloomed fields near Florence.
And - Christian Dior would be pleased! - lily of the valley with its sometimes slightly sharp floral spiciness is also not missing.
Enchanting vintage fragrance classic at its finest, surrounded by cheeky tendrils of ylang-ylang and all warmed and brought to life by sunbeams.
How rich these floral arrangements were in color, form, and fragrance diversity, which were gifted to us here!
A fragrance creation like many of its contemporaries yet so completely different!
Even though the composition of the base, which leads to the fragrant finale, is once again very chypre-typical.
Without the intertwining of strong oakmoss, deeply rooted vetiver, and patchouli notes with the creamy and simultaneously animalistic sandalwood aroma, hardly any fragrance masterpiece could have emerged; all these building blocks are too beautiful to create an artistic fragrance mosaic without them.
And this also applies to the cedarwood, which, with its well-known soft-woody aroma, tastefully and spicily weaves through a dense layer of whipped musk cream.
There must be order, and that has been the case at least since the creative work of the gentlemen of the "Guerlain Dynasty," whose rules are still more or less followed today.

Thus, in the mid-1960s, before everything was noisily turned upside down, "Shandoah" was created, a wonderfully opulent, adornment fragrance that has retained its original radiance even as an Eau de Toilette to this day.
However, the sillage and longevity reveal its volatility; anyone wanting to wear more than just a hint of "Shandoah" must reapply more often to enjoy this full and harmonious fragrance melody for a longer time!

What stories are still to be discovered here; only this one is revealed to me.

Statements

7 short views on the fragrance

Flakon11e

2 years ago

9Scent 10Longevity 7Sillage

16

30

delicate, lightly powdered floral abundance in the garden
sitting on the wooden bench in the shade of the cedar & breathing in the mossy, slightly earthy scent*

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