Chypre Palatin Parfums MDCI 2012

In my opinion, this is one of the best perfumes of this century yet. As a whole, it is difficult to find any flaws in it. A titanic work from one of the best noses in the industry, Bertrand Duchaufour. Now, the perfume did change, as far as the smell goes, although the quality stayed the same. I like to see these two as different takes on the same theme. I know Claude Marchal stated many times that the perfume has not been reformulated. Having communicated with him via e-mail on multiple occasions, I feel he is one of the nicest, most passionate, and honest people in this industry. Therefore, if he claims that, I believe him. Maybe the change in smell is due to the way these naturals are sourced, different crops, all playing a pivotal role in the end product. This is something that I have experienced already first-hand with BOGUE's MAAI, where different iterations smell completely different from each other, though no reformulation took place. Perhaps that was the case here as well. I find the two versions quite different, except for the late dry down, after five hours or so, when they become very close to each other, with the vintage keeping more of an earthy feel overall. Both play on this Baroque, Grand, Larger-Than-Life Oriental-Chypre theme, with the vintage feeling more of an actual Chypre, whereas the modern version feels more like an Oriental. There are more classical elements in the original version. The aldehydes in the opening, the bitter green galbanum, the watery hyacinth, the leathery-castoreum, the earthy mossiness, and only in the later stages do the resins start to unveil their golden warmth. In the modern version, these classical, or as some would call them nowadays, "dated" elements are no longer detectable. It starts as an Oriental, with plenty of warm resins (lots of tolu balm), sweet florals, and juicy, overripe fruits. No greens or bitters, no fleeting aldehydes, and no castoreum or leather. The inky moss and the earthiness are also missing. It is now an exotic perfume warmed by resins with only a suggestion of a Chypre-like structure. Much like MAAI changed over time. From a green chypre to a smoky-resinous Oriental. However, the change is not as significant here.

I love and enjoy both equally. When I'm in the mood for something with more of a vintage flair, I reach for the older version, and when I crave something warmer and sweeter, for the modern one. As amazing as ever, just adapted to the shifts of time, people, places, and nature.

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