4
Golden Hour
Immortelle Corse from Parfum D'Empire.
I love Immortelle as a material, but when it comes to perfumes, I am very picky about its usage in the composition. I owned many perfumes based around it and ended up selling all of them. Recently, I picked this one up after deciding I needed an Immortelle scent in my collection. After much contemplation, this is the most beautiful take on Immortelle from all I have tried and the one I have chosen.
I owned two bottles of the original Sables from Goutal and loved them dearly. However, the dry down was too sweet and ambery for my preference. Moreover, it had a weird retro air that didn't sit well with me. But for an Immortelle-themed perfume, it is the golden standard. That said, Marc Antoine managed to better it with his spin in Immortelle Corse. I find it very similar to Sables, yet with a modern touch, a more stretched-out olfactory dimension, not as sweet and syrupy (drier, actually), and more dynamic. And I think it is an improvement of an already near-perfect Immortelle-centered composition.
The opening of Immortelle Corse feels spicy, fiery, and pleasantly fruity and juicy at the same time. Citruses are listed, but what jumps out to me is the apricot. The saffron provides that fiery glaze, like the last rays of the sun blazing the horizon at dusk on an early Autumn afternoon. This introduction quickly makes way for the main player, the Immortelle. In all its glory, naked and unashamed. You need to love it to appreciate this perfume. What I like about it here is that it doesn't go super syrupy and sweet. It stays true to the more dry and shrub-like facets, playing on the tobacco, boozy, and caramel-like nuances.
Furthermore, the hefty dose of oakmoss (another favorite material of mine) anchors and further prevents it from going into that licorice-syrupy-sweet direction as it does in Sables. The latter perpetuates the dryness and adds a touch of bitterness to balance the composition. In the late dry-down, you get the Corticchiato signature musk cocktail evepresent in his compositions and easily identifiable in perfumes like Tabac Tabou and Ruade. It smells salty, creamy, and slightly leathery, providing a brilliant finishing touch to an already cleverly crafted perfume.
For me, it checks all the boxes. It delivers the huge Immortelle kick that I am craving, is complex and dynamic, vintage with modern touches, spans several genres, and provides that perfect amount of funk that makes all perfumes better (or at least more interesting).
I believe the color palette in this picture is a good suggestion of how the perfume smells. I like to think of a late day at dusk in early Autumn when the sunset is golden right before it changes to shades of red and pink. Golden is a good color for it.
IG:@memory.of.scents
I love Immortelle as a material, but when it comes to perfumes, I am very picky about its usage in the composition. I owned many perfumes based around it and ended up selling all of them. Recently, I picked this one up after deciding I needed an Immortelle scent in my collection. After much contemplation, this is the most beautiful take on Immortelle from all I have tried and the one I have chosen.
I owned two bottles of the original Sables from Goutal and loved them dearly. However, the dry down was too sweet and ambery for my preference. Moreover, it had a weird retro air that didn't sit well with me. But for an Immortelle-themed perfume, it is the golden standard. That said, Marc Antoine managed to better it with his spin in Immortelle Corse. I find it very similar to Sables, yet with a modern touch, a more stretched-out olfactory dimension, not as sweet and syrupy (drier, actually), and more dynamic. And I think it is an improvement of an already near-perfect Immortelle-centered composition.
The opening of Immortelle Corse feels spicy, fiery, and pleasantly fruity and juicy at the same time. Citruses are listed, but what jumps out to me is the apricot. The saffron provides that fiery glaze, like the last rays of the sun blazing the horizon at dusk on an early Autumn afternoon. This introduction quickly makes way for the main player, the Immortelle. In all its glory, naked and unashamed. You need to love it to appreciate this perfume. What I like about it here is that it doesn't go super syrupy and sweet. It stays true to the more dry and shrub-like facets, playing on the tobacco, boozy, and caramel-like nuances.
Furthermore, the hefty dose of oakmoss (another favorite material of mine) anchors and further prevents it from going into that licorice-syrupy-sweet direction as it does in Sables. The latter perpetuates the dryness and adds a touch of bitterness to balance the composition. In the late dry-down, you get the Corticchiato signature musk cocktail evepresent in his compositions and easily identifiable in perfumes like Tabac Tabou and Ruade. It smells salty, creamy, and slightly leathery, providing a brilliant finishing touch to an already cleverly crafted perfume.
For me, it checks all the boxes. It delivers the huge Immortelle kick that I am craving, is complex and dynamic, vintage with modern touches, spans several genres, and provides that perfect amount of funk that makes all perfumes better (or at least more interesting).
I believe the color palette in this picture is a good suggestion of how the perfume smells. I like to think of a late day at dusk in early Autumn when the sunset is golden right before it changes to shades of red and pink. Golden is a good color for it.
IG:@memory.of.scents