Darley Parfums de Marly 2012
10
Very helpful Review
Not Everybody's Darling!
At Parfums de Marly, they love horses. Once again, the name hints at equestrian sports!
Tonka bean, sandalwood, lavender, orange blossom, mint - just by looking at the pyramid, certain similarities become apparent to the perfume enthusiast. Exactly, here the successful scents of Francis Kurkdjian are being interpreted: Le Male and Fleur du Male. This has often been attempted in the budget segment, but rarely in the high-priced category. For good reason, because despite or precisely because of the controversy that Le Male and Fleur du Male provoke, the air here is very thin. Surpassing something unique (and demanding a higher price for it) is a rare challenge.
This challenge has been successfully met by Rancé's Francois Charles, which is why it is used as a comparison scent. It leans towards a spicy direction, with the gasoline-like Le Male note being underpinned with a certain breadth and balanced by neroli hints.
However, Darley has a slightly darker, rougher character. The gasoline note feels less refined and has this somewhat tar-like undertone. It is thus darker than in Le Male and aligns more with the interpretation in Fleur du Male. On the other hand, it lacks the fully opulent floral quality of Fleur du Male.
Orange blossom seems to be a tricky note. It easily becomes too sweet, too opulent, too sticky. It is probably a challenge for a perfumer to tame it. Here, it is done with a lot of mint, more than in Le Male. The mint carries its freshness into the drydown.
Without a doubt, Darley is a very good perfume. The quality is right. However, I prefer the overall finer, gentler, and yet more complex Francois Charles. And Darley does not surpass either Le Male or Fleur du Male. The gasoline-tar note corresponds more to Fleur de Male, but Darley shies away from its eccentric floral quality. Tonka and mint bring it closer to Le Male again. Viewed this way, it is neither fish nor fowl. And by no means better than the obvious models.
Tonka bean, sandalwood, lavender, orange blossom, mint - just by looking at the pyramid, certain similarities become apparent to the perfume enthusiast. Exactly, here the successful scents of Francis Kurkdjian are being interpreted: Le Male and Fleur du Male. This has often been attempted in the budget segment, but rarely in the high-priced category. For good reason, because despite or precisely because of the controversy that Le Male and Fleur du Male provoke, the air here is very thin. Surpassing something unique (and demanding a higher price for it) is a rare challenge.
This challenge has been successfully met by Rancé's Francois Charles, which is why it is used as a comparison scent. It leans towards a spicy direction, with the gasoline-like Le Male note being underpinned with a certain breadth and balanced by neroli hints.
However, Darley has a slightly darker, rougher character. The gasoline note feels less refined and has this somewhat tar-like undertone. It is thus darker than in Le Male and aligns more with the interpretation in Fleur du Male. On the other hand, it lacks the fully opulent floral quality of Fleur du Male.
Orange blossom seems to be a tricky note. It easily becomes too sweet, too opulent, too sticky. It is probably a challenge for a perfumer to tame it. Here, it is done with a lot of mint, more than in Le Male. The mint carries its freshness into the drydown.
Without a doubt, Darley is a very good perfume. The quality is right. However, I prefer the overall finer, gentler, and yet more complex Francois Charles. And Darley does not surpass either Le Male or Fleur du Male. The gasoline-tar note corresponds more to Fleur de Male, but Darley shies away from its eccentric floral quality. Tonka and mint bring it closer to Le Male again. Viewed this way, it is neither fish nor fowl. And by no means better than the obvious models.
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