I received a sample of this niche perfume, and I must say that from the very first notes, Herod turns out to be an intriguing fragrance that is well suited to my tastes in terms of perfumes. A brief introduction before diving into the cologne. One of the most accomplished racehorses of 18th century Europe, Herod was a horse of uncommon achievement descended from a famous line of Turkish warhorses. To honour him, Parfums de Marly has created a genuinely spectacular fragrance. So, they named Herod after a prodigious horse and not after Herod the Great, the client king of Judea or Herodian Kingdom.
Tobacco fragrances are fantastic, in particular, if well blended and not sweetened a lot. Herod is a warm fragrance with hints of cinnamon, tobacco, and vanilla that envelop you and give you that warm spicy sensation. It opens with those two spices on display. An explosion with a waxy flavour, especially in the first few minutes, and earthy accords combined with a woody note in the background. The waxy softens and transforms almost as fast as it appears. The spiciness of the pepper is notorious: if I hold my nose too close to the skin, it pinches my nostrils as the tobacco wakes up. Then, after a few more minutes, the fragrance becomes drier and woody. A timid presence of hot and spiced cinnamon appears and lasts until mid-growth, sitting on a smoked vanilla base.
Slowly, the tobacco develops, is not very strong, and blends well with the other notes already present in the composition. The tobacco note here is superb, and the perfumer used a slightly different type of tobacco than the other fragrances. Here I don’t feel it too aromatic nor too fragrant. There is no scent of honey or cherry pipe tobacco, at least not at first. Instead, I perceive pure and dry tobacco, almost humid, used to produce Tuscan cigars. And this imposing tobacco plays and contrasts with the sweetest spices and notes. I distinguish a mild smoky church incense, almost powdery scent, with leathery labdanum and peach osmanthus, the latter adding a fruity touch and more delicate nuance. Despite the osmanthus flowers, the perfume never crosses the female territory. Still, the incense is never complicated. The mild smoking of the incense ensures that the spice is not like a punch in the face and simply adds a soothing texture to the aroma. It’s a fabulous combination, but I’m torn about how I feel about it. Just an aside, thinking of Herod as a dominant tobacco fragrance is misleading for me because tobacco is never the most pungent note. It mixes well with other notes and, in fact, loses its power as the fragrance runs out.
The fragrance loosens up, and the base pushes it further into the traditionally masculine area, especially when the cypriol takes the stage. Cypriol comes from a plant of the papyrus family and has a smell similar to dried and smoked parchment. It is an earthy, dirty, vegetal, and green smell and a cross between dry cedar, patchouli, and vetiver. It’s an important note that I don’t think is highlighted enough in fragrances. And it’s a real shame because I love particularly bizarre and unusual notes. Oddly enough, a friendly vibe of cherry tobacco mixed with creamy smoked vanilla appears. The smoked cigar turns into sugary pipe tobacco. Tobacco, labdanum and vanilla create a soft, slightly sweet trio that grows in strength as you use it. In the end, it enhances the woodsier and earthier aspects, and I get a bit of woody from the cedar and Iso-e Super, and a hint of earthiness from the vetiver, patchouli, and musk, perhaps the same earthy impression I got in the opening.
Herod is unisex with a masculine slant, and seasonally, it is a perfume suitable for cold weather. I wear it on the heavier days of fall and then the colder days of winter, and it fits perfectly, even on cool spring nights. It is not a scent that screams out for attention regarding the performance. If you’re looking for a powerhouse, this is not it. Projection stays around your arms, though it lasts several hours as a skin scent. It’s a type of fragrance that can fit well during the day at the office. It’s not stuffy or pushy, but it also has a level of sensuality that makes it suitable for a night out or date. Herod is very cosy and warm with just the right amount of sweetness which is fine, seeing as I prefer scent with a masculine slant.
I base the review on a decant I have owned since November 2021.
