Parfums de Marly Herod is definitely one of the most accurate
Parfums de Marly Herod is definitely one of the most accurate interpretations of a smooth, pipe-type (but with a further more sophisticated glorious floral-woodsy articulation) and subtle soapy-floral tobacco's acception out there. This fragrance firstly strikes due to its claim to represent an idea of super silky (almost rubbery in one of its fleeting effects as well as we see in the central Gianfranco Ferrè for men's stage of development) vest/consistency of pipe tobacco-dominant fragrance which in this case projects also the luxurious (almost liquorous) noble facet a quality tobacco tends as well to express (namely a sparkling/intoxicating, super sophisticated, kind of aristocratic and baroquely floral sort of aura). Soapy frankincense, mild-freshly peppery spices, smooth vanilla, cypriol oil, a silky and languid osmanthus and a general widespread muskiness are all key elements revolving around this dominant pipe-soapy tobacco and working sinergically in order to turn it as a musky, well rounded and soapy affair. I have to say anyway that this rounded tobacco (and I suppose a tobacco flower works as well on its side) is really central in this fragrance and is supported by floral patterns, a touch of toasted smoke and fluidy-mild spices (cinnamon and cardamom in particular) in order to switch a sophisticated and prickly kind of velvety floral undertone under our noses. I don't get in particular any vetiver or patchouli but more properly a sort of suedish/pipe/soapy/plummy-figgy/rubbery/musky woodsy aura which is particularly chic as I equally perceive on others glorious spicy tobaccos a la E. Marinella Tabacco Imperiale (or several floral decadent tobaccos). Vanilla and cinnamom in particular provide an almost gourmandish honeyed twist a la Tom Ford Tabacco Vanille (in particular along the central stage of the trip), turning the tobacco in to an almost edible form (but never overwhelming the final dominant pipe tobacco vibe). I have to say anyway that Herod is more subtle, sophisticated and well calibrated than the more yummy/vanillic Tobacco Vanille under my profane nose. Along dry down the floral notes recedes and a drier noble (vintage and "cultured") pipe/cigar tobacco vibe (a la Teatro Olfattivo di Parma Bell'Antonio or Montagne Tobacco Noir) keeps lording alive and kicking. Performances (in particular its projection) are moderate on my skin. An adulthood refined fragrance perfect to be worn in front of a fireplace while reading a book with a glass of whisky and talking confidentially with profound and learned persons.
