Top Notes 
Bergamot
Coffee
Ylang-ylang
Geranium
Heart Notes 
Broom
Heliotrope
Coriander
Mimosa
Orange blossom
Base Notes 
Ambergris
Styrax
Vanilla
Patchouli
Sandalwood
Vetiver
Nofretete
42 Reviews
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Nofretete
Top Review
13
Heavy Stuff of Broom and Amber
Right from the start, a concentrated floral scent - spicy, almost peppery, with a darkened freshness. The coffee note is not recognizable as such: no intrusive sour instant coffee or cheap burnt espresso wafting towards you. It only gently scents of the finest coffee beans, which, roasted slowly at low temperatures, unfold a wide spectrum of aromas that reach into the floral. The coffee is not used here for a gourmand effect but serves to round off the fragrance and limit it in depth.
The molasses-sweet floral bouquet is densely woven, yet allows individual notes to be recognized. At the center lies the nectar-heavy, enchanting, and somewhat soapy broom, enhanced by sweet mimosa, powdery heliotrope, narcotic orange blossom, and spicy coriander seeds. Over time, the fragrance becomes brighter and lighter, as if the individual flowers rise from the coffee base and form a light layer above, sealing the scent upwards.
Later, amber tinted with vanilla and resins rises, and the scent becomes softer. At the same time, it feels as if the flowers are sinking into it. Thus, the amber does not appear dim and diffuse but remains wonderfully alive until the end.
Popy Moreni is a distinctive and harmoniously composed floriental. Although the scent is very spicy and quite sweet, it is in no way unpleasant; on the contrary. Both characteristics are so balanced that they create a tension between them: this has been masterfully achieved by the perfumer Martin Gras. He also created some well-known works such as "Lapidus pour Homme," "Boudoir" for Vivienne Westwood, and "1881 pour Homme" for Nino Cerruti.
It's a pity that the perfume, like the entire brand, has been forgotten. This debut has made me curious about the other fragrances by Popy Moreni, including creations by Bernard Ellena and Sophie Labbé.
The bottle is an early work by Thierry de Baschmakoff and was used for all perfumes in the line until the last one in 2003. Its shape, a collar (with a stylized thimble, needle, and thread as a closure), was the theme of a collection and the name of a solo exhibition by fashion designer Annalisa Moreni in the year before the perfume's launch.
Fashion enthusiasts can check out the runway presentation of the collection from the following year here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=beiu-7p35pE
The molasses-sweet floral bouquet is densely woven, yet allows individual notes to be recognized. At the center lies the nectar-heavy, enchanting, and somewhat soapy broom, enhanced by sweet mimosa, powdery heliotrope, narcotic orange blossom, and spicy coriander seeds. Over time, the fragrance becomes brighter and lighter, as if the individual flowers rise from the coffee base and form a light layer above, sealing the scent upwards.
Later, amber tinted with vanilla and resins rises, and the scent becomes softer. At the same time, it feels as if the flowers are sinking into it. Thus, the amber does not appear dim and diffuse but remains wonderfully alive until the end.
Popy Moreni is a distinctive and harmoniously composed floriental. Although the scent is very spicy and quite sweet, it is in no way unpleasant; on the contrary. Both characteristics are so balanced that they create a tension between them: this has been masterfully achieved by the perfumer Martin Gras. He also created some well-known works such as "Lapidus pour Homme," "Boudoir" for Vivienne Westwood, and "1881 pour Homme" for Nino Cerruti.
It's a pity that the perfume, like the entire brand, has been forgotten. This debut has made me curious about the other fragrances by Popy Moreni, including creations by Bernard Ellena and Sophie Labbé.
The bottle is an early work by Thierry de Baschmakoff and was used for all perfumes in the line until the last one in 2003. Its shape, a collar (with a stylized thimble, needle, and thread as a closure), was the theme of a collection and the name of a solo exhibition by fashion designer Annalisa Moreni in the year before the perfume's launch.
Fashion enthusiasts can check out the runway presentation of the collection from the following year here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=beiu-7p35pE
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