Polo Supreme Oud Ralph Lauren 2015

The crucial question for me was: would Carlos Benaim, after nearly forty years, succeed in giving a worthy successor to his grand masterpiece of yesteryear? For the further assessment of my commentary on Supreme Oud, it may not be insignificant that I am eternally grateful to the green Polo from 1978. In my eyes, it remains a fixed star in the fragrance cosmos, against which many creations will have to measure themselves. Only a few shine so worthy, enduring, and intense.

Well then, the signs were actually not bad. Born and raised in Morocco, working for numerous renowned houses, Master Perfumer, awarded the Lifetime Achievement Award: if he couldn’t skillfully implement the theme of Oud, who could?

Unfortunately, Mr. Benaim leaves me without an answer. I have no intention of presenting myself as an expert on Oud. Nor do I wish to engage in the discussion of whether the “Oud” trend has already peaked. But what is presented to me here as “Supreme” I can only regretfully deem insufficient.

Supreme Oud lacks many qualities that characterize a good fragrance for me. Its spiciness is intrusive, even clumsy. Fine nuances will be sought in vain here. On the contrary: marked by a tough, fruity mélange at the beginning, Supreme Oud ultimately runs out of breath, drowning in a mixture of wormwood and cough syrup. The whole thing is medicinally bitter, sweaty, and synthetic. Others have done better. Only the base reconciles me somewhat; Supreme Oud becomes overall milkier, warmer wood tones and a slight coconut note give the fragrance a less piercing profile. Pleasant, but also not particularly spectacular.

I guess I will wait a little longer for Benaim's next big hit. In the meantime, the green Polo puts me in a reconciliatory mood. After such a fragrance monolith, the bar is simply set high, and if nothing else comes along, then that’s fine by me.