Umbra Ramón Monegal 2010

The name Umbra is very well chosen for this fragrance, as the color Umbra - and for my perception, Umbra-green - radiates the cool yet enveloping darkness that characterizes the scent.

Umbra is rightly a unisex fragrance, wearable for men, but I find it much more interesting and special on myself. The cool spicy freshness is invigorating yet soft. I find it remarkable that the freshness is crafted entirely without citrus or fruity notes. I can't detect any floral notes either.
I am not familiar with balsam fir, but it is balsamic - resinous would be too much to say - despite the pronounced coniferous aroma, this is how the perfume unfolds on my skin. Tonka bean skillfully prevents vetiver and pepper from becoming too scratchy and rough, seamlessly complementing the heart note to end in an elegant powdery, but by no means sweet base. Even those who have a problem with mossy notes can approach this fragrance with ease, as this nuance harmoniously fits into the overall concept.

Umbra is now the first fragrance by Ramon Monegal that lands directly on my wish list. Dark, elegant, cool but infinitely soft in the dry down and with good longevity. Heart, what more do you want? I do not perceive it as a drawback that Umbra is not a glamorous fragrance, does not cater to erotic longings, and certainly does not come across as cheerful or cheeky. It is one of those fragrances that is at peace with itself and transmits this calmness to the wearer. I also cannot find any resemblance to other perfumes, as vetiver scents are usually rougher, and fir, pine, and other conifers often remind me of bath additives, while tonka perfumes are often too sweet for me. None of this can be criticized in Umbra. Everything plays together skillfully, and I am already starting to make space in my fragrance cabinet.