Superuomo Re Profumo 2014

Perhaps the title of the fragrance is not as silly as I initially thought, considering my (and certainly not just my) spontaneous associations. Maybe the Italians are less biased in their terminology or they are more self-assured in this regard, I don’t know.

Anyone who visits the Re Profumo website and opts for the English version will find only a video that is visually reduced to the extreme: A milky, cloudy single image of the bottle and packaging gradually becomes clearer. That’s it. A voice narrates things I do not understand. Hm… I had to choose the supposedly English version for a reason, after all.

Clearly, the provider does not care about global buzzwords and probably also not about any conceivable “super” hero connotation. Instead, the title may simply refer to the Latin origin of the word: “above” or “beyond.” Because ‘Superuomo’ confidently moves beyond, let’s say, masculine fragrance clichés, and its classification as a men’s perfume can already be questioned.

Green-bitter-sharp citrus fruit strolls on a base of equally green and equally bitter herbs. Ventilated by a hint of essential oil - I would not have thought of cardamom. It is wise and not unthoughtful to not present the fruit alone, as it will soon need support. The promised wax is noticeable, but does not dominate; it remains more of a temporary touch, similar to a portion of subtle humor. So far, so casually elegant.

Aaaaber there’s more: Within a few minutes, the citrus note becomes milder and actually presents itself as Chinotto lemonade. Not even the carbonation is missing, thanks to a slight (Citral?)-fizzing powder.

It’s a pity that this phase does not last longer. Soon, a tiny hint of soapiness indicates another shift, this time towards neroli. After about an hour, airy-watery candy neroli prevails; without any nimm2 stickiness, but much more delicate. Just a gentle citrus candy, relentlessly fresh. A lasting, herb-spicy-woody foundation effectively prevents a playful impression from forming.

Before noon, a gently swelling contribution of vanilla has shifted the focus once again, now into the creamy. The fact that the fragrance continues to appear finely citrusy in the overall picture is now undoubtedly also due to the corresponding qualities of the vetiver. And even as more and more sweetness joins in, with the vanilla developing an almost sugary (but for heaven's sake crumb-free!) quality in the late afternoon, the fragrance in its wonderful creaminess feels as Italian as one could wish.

By now, our “Über-Man” or rather “Beyond-the-Man” has become quite subdued, but: What does that matter? Only philistines try to replace character with loudness.

Anyone who appreciates ‘Vetiver Ambrato’ should definitely test ‘Superuomo’, although one should not expect a twin. Unfortunately, the remaining level of the sample (many thanks to MisterE!) did not allow for a third test. But in terms of Chinotto, I can console myself with ‘Italian Citrus’ by Durga.