Capucci l'Homme Suave joined my wardrobe in March 2018, but it doesn't seem to have received the proper attention from me. Not because it's not fair, but because I haven't given my time to it yet. I own the first version launched under the name l'Homme Sauvage, which was later changed to l'Homme Suave for obvious plagiarism reasons. Interesting how they went from the noun rude, eager, rough, to something opposite like lovable, debonair, adorable, yet it sounds like when pronounced. And if we're honest, plagiarism here isn't just the name. The perfume has remained the same, no reformulation, only the name has changed. The bottle follows its predecessors' footsteps that Capucci has accustomed us to, the chypre Pour Homme par excellence. Here we find a metallic magma grey juice. And for this cologne, the Italian perfumer wanted to give us a fougère par excellence, but in a more contemporary way. I like everything I own by Roberto Capucci. I believe his perfume line is generally diminished and far better than many more expensive brands, and it doesn't get the prestige he deserves!
L'Homme Suave is a full-toned correspondent of Dior Sauvage, inspired by the famous monster but not a carbon copy, not so fiery; I guess some subdued amber replaces salty ambroxan. It has a marginally stronger opening, noticeable but never overwhelming, and overall slightly brighter for the entire life, and it also has better longevity. A burst of tart citrus fruits topped with a heady pink pepper lifts as the scent greets me with a fresh, slightly minty, and piquant accord. Here is a medicinal, sharp, pine-needle-like, balsamic, clean, and green touch that goes well with the citrus blend, sometimes a little dusty and soapy. Suave begins an extraordinarily knifelike, and crunchy, no-frills fragrance that reveals his character right from the start. Overall, the head is trivial and superficial at first, a little balmy, but it becomes very sensual and vigorous after a short time. That opening reminds me of the Chinotto soft drink, a bitter-sweet cola, even though Suave is neither sweet nor sticky. Despite the citrus and salty fruits, Suave is a high mountain air, not a coastal breeze.
That refined and controlled blend of citrus and spices develops into a deeper, softer, warmer, and more aromatic floral heart, more complex and fascinating. Lively jasmine meets the more herbaceous lavender tones; I deduce the green leaves of the geranium blend, along with the pitchy notes of galbanum. The lavender aroma is like a lavender basket sunk in the cedar wood of the dry sauna. A dainty pink pepper and a soft tartness of petitgrain leaves accompany the whole fragrant bouquet. That heart is just too odoriferous and herbaceous.
When the verdant heart dries, the more woody and earthy notes of the vetiver blast. The olfactory pyramid here and on the official website Extrafragrance.it does not mention any amber-like ingredients, yet a pinch of silky amber is there, not cloying and not exaggerated, just the right touch. As it enters the dry downstage, an earthy warmth takes over. Things differ in the vetiver's addition, a rogue note that takes the scent on a distinct path. It elevates the spices and the flowers and provides contrast, allowing the spiciness of pepper and invigorating citrus to shine through the juxtaposition of a herbaceous note, of roots and earth. It's all incredibly subtle, nuanced, and refined. The base announces itself with the exhausted lavender's remains, a crucial component of the warm notes. The sweet character develops further into the earthy one, with an amber undertone and a generous dose of Iso E Super contributing to the rest. In contrast to the bright and spicy opening, the finish goes deep into the passionate musky angles, which has a slightly soapy smell, an idea of cleanliness.
Here we are. I insist this is not a shameless clone of Dior Sauvage. There is more and better here. Pleasantly medicinal from start to finish. Dyes, roots, and candies like Ricola. How many nearly €15 colonies can make that claim, and looking at reviews, others are performing exceptionally well too. Long longevity and above moderate sillage. Hidden gem? Definitely. It is a four-season fragrance, very versatile, even if I reach it mostly during the warmer mid-seasons and hot summer nights. Depending on the season and climate, some notes emerge while others disappear, although the scent always stays good without overwhelming or cloying. Every time I wear it, it's a surprise. Well, a remarkable compliment collector, when people smell this about you, they will know that you are a classy man but not a posh gentleman.
This review bases upon a 100ml (3.4 fl. oz.) bottle I own since March 2018.
