Amber Aoud Roja Parfums 2012 Parfum

Indeed, I managed to get a sample of this highly praised fragrance. Of course, one can spend 450 euros for a 50 ml bottle, but only if one is extremely wealthy and a bit delusional! ;-) Clearly, Roja is not in MY league, and I actually don't want to play in it at all!

So far, I have only encountered "Elysium" by Roja, which is described here as citrus-fresh. To be honest, I understand something different by that, as it struck me as maximally fruity-animalic. Nevertheless, practically every fragrance from this exclusive brand achieves an incredibly good overall rating. This is likely also because "Otto Normaldufter" doesn't even bother to compete and rate! ;-)

But whether it's Roja, Amouage, Marly, or Kilian: basically, 90 percent of the fragrances from these niche brands are simply too sweet for me! This one is considered oriental-woody, but the first and last thing that comes to my nose is sweetness, even if it diminishes a bit over time. That was, of course, to be expected with Amber in the name. I didn't choose the sample either, as I'm not a big fan of Oud, but that's exactly why I want to evaluate "Amber Aoud" - I'm not shortening it! ;-) - here with my "amateur nose."

I do smell quality, if that should be given to me. The most exquisite ingredients may have been used in this fragrance. However, I cannot judge that solely based on my sense of smell. Warmth and harmony certainly surround me, even if I must say directly: this fragrance doesn't really belong on my skin. But I'm slowly venturing into other spheres that I didn't even know existed 4-5 years ago. I can now also live with sweet, powdery, and leathery notes and can find something appealing in them in the right mix for me!

In any case, I have perceived Oud much stronger and amber much more finely dosed. All the other components are only marginally accessible to my nose, saffron perhaps aside. What I like is that "Amber Aoud" is not an overly extreme powerhouse and the scent progression is rather linear than constantly changing. It's definitely unisex, but for me, it's perhaps a bit too tailored to the ladies.

My final (as always subjective) judgment: sweet warmth for the colder season is harmoniously conveyed here with great longevity, but (thankfully) not overwhelming sillage. I miss a bit of "hardness," perhaps a touch of vetiver, a hint of incense, or a bitter citrus note. In my eyes, the price certainly does not justify the purchase. "Ambre Nuit" by Dior, for example, costs only a fifth when converted to the offered quantity! and hits the same note!

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ADDENDUM: At the very end (after about 5-6 hours), I am left with a slightly soapy-floral impression with a small amount of residual sweetness that reminds me of a pleasantly scented body cream!