Ottone Santa Maria Novella 2010

From the few fragrances I have tried from Santa Maria Novella, I was not necessarily impressed. Nevertheless, I have always found the house to be highly likable, because unlike pseudo-historical brands like Creed, Carthusia, Rancé, etc., they do not endlessly dwell on a story that demands authenticity, but rather casually mention that the products are made in a state-of-the-art laboratory with modern materials like traditional oils and not with alchemical tinctures based on original medieval recipes (Nostalgia refers to old race cars and not the Florence of the Medici). Although they do have a long history to look back on.

The anniversary fragrance Ottone is also a very traditional scent, which - similar to many Villoresi classics - creates a beautiful Mediterranean arc from the citrus fruits, herbs, and spices of Italy to the balsamic resins of the (literally) Near East. This style can be found in many Italian and Spanish eaux de toilette and is certainly part of the collective memory of male "grooming culture" in these regions, just as citrus-lavender-floral-powder-wood is for the English (or at least it used to be).

The quality of the raw materials is excellent and the composition is skillfully done. The citrus-floral opening has no chance against the quickly spreading herbal notes, but it continues to resonate. The oregano does not smell overwhelmingly like pizza seasoning, but rather like a robust bundle of fresh herbs that soon blends seamlessly into the clove and soft cinnamon. The incense does not stand out for me, nor do we have to deal with a overpoweringly dry "cedar-e-super" note and intrusive santalol. Instead, the fragrance glides thoughtfully on my skin into a soft balsamic base that, whether it is or not, smells harmoniously and unobtrusively of natural oils. As Apicius already writes, solid and conservative - this is not about surprises and innovations, but about honoring classic perfume tradition. This is achieved brilliantly and can be worn with great enjoyment.