Bourreau des Fleurs Serge Lutens 2017

This is the story, in which I try to describe my time and journey with this Perfume, from Serge Lutens.
Mind you, although some claim this type of notes and opening are specific for this house, this is the only Perfume from them that I have, and indeed, the thick sweet openings attracted me to them (so basically 'I donno if it's that original to be deemed worthy of praising' ) .

I managed to snatch the perfume from a Perfume shop foreclosing, back in Spring/ Summer. All original, well stored and factory sealed.
Now, in the region I tried to purchase it, people were asking 500$ + for 50ml SH bottles. Worth it? Up to you.

So, here' s the journey:

I immediately noticed it was quality, and it had character uniqueness. I could then smell it with a heavily stuffed nose.
First note, I couldn' t even describe it. After less than one minute, something bitter let itself be recognized, burnt like, like the burnt ends of a cake/ pastry, or licorice, and I dislike licorice- smells and tastes medicinal for me and added to that, these for me are Christmas pastry/ times smells, thus the wrong weather.
It was nothing like I imagined or hoped, based on the reviews and the wiff I got from smelling Bois du Vanille in a shop.
I've kept testing it, so I wouldn't just flip it.

After a few days, air getting into the bottle, there was a very hidden and thick sweet note lingering behind the (still dominant) licorice one (nose not stuffed anymore) . I hoped it will become stronger with time, otherwise I' d have to sell it.

After another month of sitting, it started being sweet, thick, nice and heavy. The bitterness of the licorice was gone from the opening; it stayed only in the drydown. However, the drydown started rather fast and lingered until the (bitter) end.
The smell in the opening became that of a heavily smelling flower bouquet, sweet and thick, but was quickly gone. Selling really wasn't a thought anymore, as I couldn't accept that such a praised nieche Perfume house would only let you smell such a well crafted introduction for a few seconds, and then make a liniar perfume. So, I' ve let it sit.

Now that the weather is cold: yeah, this is top notch. This is the kind of complexity and punch I like in a perfume. I don't know if it's from sitting longer, or just that the air is colder (or both) , but the opening is not licorice anymore (burnt ends) , but thick, sweet, mapley (almost with a hint of fruitiness that tricks my nose into thinking it's sour also) in front row, and in second row, letting themselves be carried, the burnt ends (licorice) .

It leans feminine - the sweetness in it, I can see it only as a small hint on a man, on his winter scarf, or a jacket, that stays close, to 'mark' the teritory, subtly announcing 'he' is there.

Projection, is at a normal distance (half an arm' s length, or a little bit above it) , and considering its target audience- I think it is done not to be vulgar, but enough to be noticed.
It holds well on my skin-
strong for around 2 hours, and up until the next day the (unfortunately) burnt ends/ licorice- faintly.
Atomizer spray although really wide and good, because of the strength of the juice, it makes a focused hot spot of (strong) smell.

So, the perfumes that are seen by me as above 'average' , do it so cause of the emotions they generate, or (re)invoke.
This perfume was smelled in the wrong season, and whilst it didn't have enough time to mature.

This is the type of perfume you might miss on if tested (freshly opened) on a paper strip.
Time improved it, and synchronized my memories and feelings with the notes. It became 'my perfume'- not gonna be sold category, cause of the memories it brings back, and like all in this category, I hope it stays around whilst I make other pleasant memories, for me to fondly remember.

This for me, is definitely a cold weather perfume, sophisticated and complex.
I find it a masterpiece, and although the smell doesn't fully resonate with me (not my type of notes) , I truly have to say, it's art form level. I read most SL are like this, maybe, I couldn't tell one way or the other, as I only have this one.

And to this rollercoaster of a journey, I have to say: great craftmanship.

L.E. : September 2025, after close to 1 year from my original review, my God, did this perfume blossom. Sweetness takes front row main stage, from the beginning. In the cold humid weather, your nose feels drowned in thick, flowery and maple syrupy smell. It's as thick as Fall Into Stars from StrangeloveaNYC. You feel like a bee in nectar.
Gorgeous. This is what I imagine 'niche' or 'artisan' perfumery being- quality over quantity.