Sonia Rykiel. No, she may not have been one of the prettiest designers of her time who shaped the world of fashion. She had the most piercing and cold gray-green eyes I had ever seen. Even then, she wore a Smoky-Eyes look. Her coral-red hair always looked like it had just fought with a cat. The primary color of her clothing was predominantly black. She mostly wore dresses and long skirts. On her thin lips, which usually bore only a half-smile, bright red lipstick stood out. And her pale complexion already appeared ghostly and not exactly healthy. Her personal look would today be described as Black Avant-Garde in fashion. No, she was not the prettiest, but she was one of the most charismatic, mysterious, and remarkable fashion icons of the 80s. She brought knitwear to the runways of the world and became internationally famous with her black-and-white creations. In 1979, she launched her first fragrance called 7e Sense. A perfume in whose fine mesh one can quickly become entangled! Sometimes we get closer to a designer than we might like by wearing their perfume. Sometimes we look so deeply into their soul that we feel we might drown in it. But some perfumes are not just worn; one is carried by them. Or, as in the case of Sonia Rykiel’s 7e Sense, simply swept away and enveloped by the deepest, protective darkness!
7e Sense
The perfume initially starts off quite harmless with masses of fragrant aldehydes, but that changes soon. Overzealous jasmine and various other floral notes from cloves and daffodils rise up. Fruity notes sneak in. A light sweetness gently resonates. In this case, it is the ripe scent of peaches. All the previous notes linger in airy heights for a while until they are literally torn down to the earth. Dark tones of patchouli come forth like gloomy shadows. It smells of damp, warm earth and gently smoky peat. The scent of darkest green-brown moss mingles with herby-spicy coriander leaves. Everything is underscored by a deep olfactory, animalistic growl from leathery castoreum and sour civet. Comparable to a predator that threateningly lifts its lips and shows its fangs, from which a deep, warm, menacing or lustful rumble emerges. Here, danger literally hangs in the air!
Conclusion
What is the best comparison for 7e Sense? It is most comparable to a solar eclipse. One's own radiance is darkened by the perfume like through a fog of mysterious, fragrant anti-matter. One is almost swallowed by it. But not entirely! A delicate, glowing outline of personality remains. This may sound terrible, but it is by no means so. Through this powerful shadow that lays upon one, one feels very safe and protected inside. Calm, silence, and incredible strength pulsate at the center of the darkness. One feels almost a little invulnerable! Whatever Sonia Rykiel wanted to convey with her signature scent will likely remain her secret forever. It seems to me that she created this fragrance solely to protect herself. To protect herself from what lurks out there! She has woven such a fine, tightly-knit, black net of melancholic and dark notes that the fragile soul behind it almost disappears. 7e Sense by Sonia Rykiel is, personally speaking, one of the heaviest, most mysterious, profound, and unfathomable perfumes I have encountered in a very long time.
If I had come across this back then, I probably would have liked it already... Great picture of the darkness with the glowing edges! Between attack and protection of the fragile inside, amazing. 🥰
I'm currently sniffing this scent. Somewhere between "The claws are out" and "I'm close to tears." It's not classically pretty either. But devilishly beautiful. ✨
A great tribute to Sonia Rykiel. Her knit designs were legendary. I loved her sweaters and the tiny mini knit dresses. I even bought one for myself once. I thought to myself that you should push your financial limits when you're young, so I got it for half price at a boutique in Schwabing for 250 DM.
I found the scent too mature for me back then. Today, I would wear it immediately.
"Your own glow is darkened by the perfume like through a fog of mysterious, fragrant anti-matter." How cool does that sound? I always say, you should write a book. Best, Michael
Now you've got me curious again! This beautiful, vivid description is great.
Dare to be different, that's what I say ;-)!
Wishing you a lovely weekend!
I just looked at pictures of Sonia Rykiel - until this comment, I only knew her name, not her face - and I have to say, she looked a lot like Pina Bausch. Not at first, but on the second and every subsequent look. They could have been soulmates.
That sounds exciting; almost like: "must be tested urgently!" I also remember Signora Rykiel's knitwear very well, which often came in quite bright colors and zigzag patterns. These pieces were so light and could be easily tucked away in a handbag. This scent sounds like it takes up more space!
Her fashion was already impressive; it seemed she was missing a hairstylist. The scent you pulled from your treasure chest sounds impressive too, based on your description. Thanks for that.
I really liked this perfume, but I didn't find it as animalistic and intense as you did. I think I was still a teenager when I got my first bottle of 7ème sens as a gift...
I really enjoy your series on celebrating wonderful vintage fragrances, and the fact that you choose slightly different scents from this segment than I do makes it especially appealing to me. However, we definitely have some overlap here. And you always write so beautifully, you old aesthetic! ;)
.. a glowing comment from someone who illuminates others and different things with worthy respect, dressing it all in passion through beautiful narratives ---- > applause!!
The Italian counterpart of Sonia Rykiel was Maria Mandelli, known as Krizia. Her fragrances were always more accessible than Rykiel's. Anyway, that's another great comment.
Your comment really resonates with me again. Musically, I've been into "Eclipse" by Apoptygma Berzerk lately, but this song fits too. The scent might be a bit too animalistic for my taste.
I love your perspective on things, people, and life in all its facets. You never stay on the surface; you always look deeper with great respect, empathy, and sensitivity. Here, too, I find a comment that touches me deeply alongside factual information.
The scent you’ve masterfully described and presented seems to be more influenced by the name than by the appearance of the unknown master. 'Sonia Rykiel' has an outrageously erotic sound to my ears!
I always really liked this bold and unconventional appearance of Mme Rykiel. A true exception, just like the fragrance seems to be. I haven't encountered it yet, so I don't know if it would be too much for me or if it would spark great enthusiasm. Your excitement clearly comes through, and I think that's fantastic!
I found the scent too mature for me back then. Today, I would wear it immediately.
Dare to be different, that's what I say ;-)!
Wishing you a lovely weekend!
I also remember Signora Rykiel's knitwear very well, which often came in quite bright colors and zigzag patterns.
These pieces were so light and could be easily tucked away in a handbag.
This scent sounds like it takes up more space!
Masterful.
Pearl diver.