Tiane
01/20/2017 - 06:25 PM
30
Top Review
10Scent 4Longevity 8Sillage 6Bottle

Hunting Grounds

From Sylvaine Delacourte's collection of musks, Florentina seems to be the most popular so far.
Florentina is undoubtedly a beautiful fragrance and will certainly secure a firm place among the powdery scents. However, I find it a bit too agreeable, too perfect, and a tad too sweet - at least too sweet to wear every day at the office.
Smeraldo is the scent that fascinates me the most. It is not super eccentric, but less sweet and more interesting, promising not to become boring too quickly (is it a known perfume phenomenon that one gets used to a scent far too quickly and then immediately needs something new?).
Perhaps it's also because I don't know a comparable fragrance. Maybe one of those moments when you discover a new olfactory world and are simply blown away because there is suddenly so much new hunting ground ;-)

With Smeraldo, I find it striking that the scent impression varies greatly depending on how close you get to the skin. When I smell very close to the skin, the fragrance smells herb-bitter, herbal, and especially citrusy at the beginning.
The scent cloud that surrounds me a few hours after spraying smells completely different - not herb-bitter at all, but floral-fruity. "Floral-fruity" is actually a scent description that lies somewhere between an insult and a warning for me. However, I mean it in the best sense here. Not sweet-floral-fruity-syrupy, but naturally fruity and subtly floral.
Specifically: I perceive a wonderfully intertwined mix of pear, angelica, and hawthorn most strongly. I would not have thought that pear could work so well in a fragrance. But we are not dealing with an overripe pear, nor a sour, unripe pear. And we are far from pear aroma. It smells different, mildly green-fruity. This might also be because the fragrance notes have been wonderfully blended together, creating a completely new scent impression. Overall, this is definitely more than just the sum of its parts.
The warm-spicy angelica can be detected and reminds me of Angelique Noire, where I also find it absolutely stunning. The hawthorn reminds me of Chanel's Beige and adds elegance to the fragrance. I can only sense the rose and think that it beautifully rounds off the overall impression along with a slightly citrusy scent.
Often, this overall sweet-mild, cold-warm, and green-smelling mixture reminds me of the start of Omnia Amethyste (scent note "green plant juice"). Some might associate the scent with wild woodruff or coumarin.
Neither vetiver nor cedar stands out to me; we definitely do not have a vetiver-heavy fragrance and no pronounced woody base. The mastic shrub does not make the scent woody, but simply gives it a slightly edgier and more interesting character.
I currently enjoy wearing Smeraldo very much in winter and find it suitable, but it will certainly fit even better in spring and summer. Truly a year-round fragrance.
Smeraldo feels super elegant and reminds me, in the way it combines high-class with understatement, of Chanel's Beige. However, I like it much better. I would actually love to have this fresh, noble understatement for the office every day - and I mean right now. It also fits well in the office. Although it almost feels too good for that. I think it's time for me to get familiar with how to start a sharing. Because I can no longer manage the 100 ml bottle - after 10 ml, something new is needed again. The new hunting ground also needs to be explored :)
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7 Comments
HannahHannah 6 years ago
Beautifully described. I feel exactly the same way and find your comparisons very relatable. For me, it's the best from the musk line. In the vanilla series, I like Vahina the most. Thanks for the helpful comment. Best, Hannah
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GelisGelis 8 years ago
I just sprayed Smeraldo and I'm realizing it's going to be tough for me. I've also noticed that my "hunting fever" has skyrocketed since I joined parfumo. 馃弳
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AugustoAugusto 8 years ago
I completely agree with your comment, even down to the details like woodruff and the vetiver, which I also don't smell. It's a really lovely scent. I actually prefer it to the somewhat too sweet Florentina for my taste. The Smeraldo is definitely more interesting, but overall it has a friendly and warming effect for a green fragrance. Thanks for the samples that made the test possible!
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ChanelleChanelle 9 years ago
You're right, I've only known this constant search for something new since Parfumo. In the past, I had 1-2 favorites and 3-4 "runners-up." Now my taste changes with the wind...
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ZhuZhu 9 years ago
Just tested all 5 from the discovery set. I can only agree, Smeraldo is the most interesting of the 5 fragrances from Mme Delacourte.
By the way: great comment, here's an emerald trophy for that :)
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TianeTiane 9 years ago
Thanks, I'm glad to hear that! I was starting to feel like the absolute exception. Looks like we might actually gather a few Smeraldo fans together for a sharing ^_^
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BertelBertel 9 years ago
Excellent, spot-on, and friendly comment - wonderful, thank you! Indeed, a fantastic fragrance, definitely the most interesting one in Madame Delacoure's Muscs collection for me.
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