How beautiful the ingredient rose is in a perfume, in whatever form, became truly clear to me many years ago when I got to know Zino by Davidoff (the version with italic font before the dilution). There are indeed parallels to Phi - Une Rose de Kandahar. Both share a spicy-oriental character. However, there are also marked differences. Phi is noticeably fruitier and more floral, overall sweeter, and less woody than Zino. Nevertheless, Phi contrasts the floral sweetness with a dark, very oily, slightly bitter, and spicy note. This rose oil-like quality is particularly characteristic. It has almost a medicinal aspect at the beginning, without being sharp. A fabulous Bitter Sweet Symphony.
A connection can also be made to Lumière Noire pour Homme by MFK. This one is certainly lighter, more transparent than Phi, and in its flawlessness also more abstract. LpH is overall fresher. Phi, on the other hand, is more sensual. The fragrance makes no secret of placing the apricot fruit and marzipan right at the center. But only to capture both components with fresh, darkly spicy tobacco. Here, those who can appreciate Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford might feel addressed. Interestingly, Phi is owned by more men than women on parfumo (as of 03.03.2021). In terms of target group voting, women are proportionally ahead. This reflects a possible gender-specific categorization (for those who wish to use it as a point of reference) of Phi well. It is unisex, remains ambivalent, and somewhat eludes categorization. I find that immensely appealing.
Phi is a spring, autumn, and winter fragrance. And a scent for sleeping. Therefore, references to Oud Satin Mood by MFK are also possible from my perspective, although there is no oud in Phi. The drydown is wonderfully soft, warm, and harmonious. Here, musk, tonka, and amber do a great job, fixing it firmly. However, it is not overly heavy, as one might initially suspect. Projection and longevity are undoubtedly good, but overall, Phi does not come across as overloaded to me. Certainly, one must have an openness to sweetness and gourmand notes. The cliff of over-sentimentality is then skillfully navigated. As for categorizing Phi, I also find that the fragrance is both retro and progressive at the same time. In my view, it is indeed so unique that I can imagine it on both an older woman and a younger man equally. Phi is a perfume that seems to particularly come to life through the wearer. I find that post-post-modern. And utterly delightful.
Ah, you also notice a similarity to Lumière Noire pH! I see it the same way as you; Phi is a bit more sensual but has similar "vibes." I'm still grappling with the dry down a bit, but overall, I'm quite taken with it. Great review that I just found!
Yes, this is a very unique rose scent among rose perfumes. I also find it very, very beautiful and quite new, almost progressive, as you mentioned.
Your comment shows a great understanding of ingredients in perfumes.
Your comment shows a great understanding of ingredients in perfumes.