PHI - Une Rose de Kandahar / Collectible PHI - Une Rose de Kandahar by Tauer Perfumes

PHI - Une Rose de Kandahar
Collectible PHI - Une Rose de Kandahar
2013

hedonist222
12/08/2013 - 10:31 PM
6
Very helpful Review

Marzipan Noir

Opening is a handful.
It starts out unapologetic.
All notes radiating at maximum capacity.
Bitter almond (no sweetness) and apricot made dusty by the tobacco leaves. A faint sparkle from the bergamot.
The tonka balances the patchouli.
No dainty frills.
There's an overall austere mood to it.
There's a strong correlation between it & Rahat Loukoum.
I'm getting a likeness to that supple leather & plum accord in Boxeueses.
But here it's supple leather & almond.
I'm GLAD the rose isn't prominent at all.
We all love roses but there are enough outstanding rose perfumes available.
There is rose and I can tell its not the regular fluffy rose but its not rose centered.

Then an interplay of notes commences.
Here is where Andy's craftsmanship in complexity is most vivid.

The premise is as such:
A bonding of gourmand & noir (leathery resinous accord)
Composition :
The apricot & almond create a marzipan accord. The gourmand aspect.
The tobacco (excessive use of) , geranium & musk make up the noir effect.
This demonstrates Andy's craftsmanship with complex compositions.
It opens with strong presence then harmoniously transitions to its peak purpose -interplay of gourmand & leathery/resinous (dark)- and then settles to a base that is the sum of all its parts.
I'd have named it Marzipan Noir.
5 Comments
hedonist222hedonist222 12 years ago
Some scents & odors are subjective.
But no I don't get urine.

Maybe it's the bitter almond note.
TnahowruTnahowru 12 years ago
So, am I the only one that smells peepee then?
TriffidTriffid 12 years ago
I've sampled all Tauer's rose frags, own two of them, but never feel they are really about the rose at all. One has to love the signature "tauerade" and certain other favourite Ttauer accords. When I want full-on roses, I too look elsewhere!
hedonist222hedonist222 12 years ago
Triffid,

A major determining factor is Andy's signature accord.

I can clearly smell it here & I love it.

I own a few from Andy but don't own his rose one because I like roses from other brands, even though I do like his signature accord.

TriffidTriffid 12 years ago
Still making up my mind about this one. I have the 15ml Explorer size. Agree that rose is not the star player, nor the listed apricot. I get a lot of bitter almond and creamy, dreamy vanilla rose. A bit departure in style for me.