Noir Tom Ford 2012 Eau de Parfum

A Tom Ford as it should be. A wave of sensory impressions breaks its way through, leaving hardly any time to sort them out at first. However, as time goes on, the scent reveals itself to be very static, and the transition to a harmonious base just doesn’t quite succeed.

The fireworks at the beginning of the fragrance are genre-crossing. The citrusy opening is sharp, and the verbena slightly reminds me of Colonia by Acqua di Parma. Barely noticed, this impression is soon overshadowed a) by a slightly biting, animalistic note that I attribute to civet, b) a room-filling powderiness that strongly reminds me of Dior Homme, and c) a herbal soapiness.

All of this undoubtedly exudes a distinctive, masculine aura. However, in my eyes, the composition is not particularly well-balanced. The fragrance seems unable to decide for a long time where the journey should actually lead. The ingredients simply do not come together, failing to create a coherent overall picture. Like moths, they flutter around the light, nervously, indecisively, and obeying no order.

Noir fluctuates between bitterness, opulence, and sweetness, with the latter clearly gaining the upper hand towards the end. While the heart note is still marked by a relative randomness - alongside the notes mentioned at the beginning, I also perceive smoky nuances of rose and the fatty charm of baby cream - in the base, strictly sweet components claim their due space. A crystal-clear violet, paired with fruity hints of pear and vanilla, creates a strict, almost unbearably heavy sweetness over time. It hovers unbroken over everything, stubborn on one hand and simultaneously in constant refusal to establish any form of connection with the remaining fragrance components.

The longevity and sillage of Noir are enormous, and the quality of the ingredients leaves nothing to be desired, as is customary with Tom Ford. And yet: what I usually appreciate in many of his works, the precise, linear finish, becomes quite exhausting with Noir after a certain time. Therefore, nothing would please me more than for the fragrance to take a turn towards the end, allowing itself and me a bit more depth and relaxation.