Bois Doré Van Cleef & Arpels 2017

Skiers among you will surely recognize my reference in the title. Bois Dore is also a bomb, a sensation. Once again, I can clearly see how important multiple tests are with Bois Dore. During the first test in the overheated perfumery, the air heavily infused with perfume, I found the scent very good, but it smelled too one-dimensional to me, predominantly of tonka. In the fall during my vacation in Italy at 26 degrees, it was too sweet for me and smelled exclusively of tonka. Now, this weekend, sprayed again in freezing temperatures, I could bathe in it and perceive several additional nuances that had previously escaped me.
Nevertheless, Bois Dore initially starts with a strong, but absolutely divine tonka note, which I have never perceived as beautifully and, above all, as high-quality in any other fragrance before.
So far, my tonka reference has been Tonka by Reminiscence, which is somewhat very feminine, but still super beautiful. And yes, I also know that the tonka bean currently does not enjoy such a good reputation here, but that is mainly due to the partly unspeakable designer fragrances that use it in an extremely sweet, sticky, and synthetic form. This form in Bois Dore is in a completely different league; anyone who does not smell this or does not test the fragrance because of tonka is to blame themselves.
The blend with the spicy-sharp pepper, an ozonic or slightly sulfurous touch, makes the scent or the tonka facet very special. The comparison further down with the freshly lit match also fits quite well. The iso-note (presumably abundantly present) makes the fragrance shine and glow as always and simultaneously imbues Bois Dore with a slight woody undertone; everything is just very harmonious. The scent flickers similarly to Molecule, making any statement about the sillage very difficult. Initially strong, then you think it’s gone, and suddenly it’s back. A small contrast, like stepping briefly outside, is completely sufficient to smell the fragrance again. An increase in body heat, like with Molecule, also brings the scent out of the "abyss." The longer you wear the fragrance, the more you feel that pure pepper was not used, but rather a kind of "frankincense pepper," which makes it significantly more masculine in the end. However, the transitions here are very fluid.
For me, a wonderful fragrance that fits perfectly into the season; cool spring days and cool summer evenings should also work well. Even in the office, it is never too much.
Longevity and sillage are very good, but also fluctuating. On average, it was easily 6-7 hours.
If you want the much-used image of a crackling fireplace, warmth, and coziness, which is quite understandable right now, then this fragrance should hit the mark for you.