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One of a kind and ahead of its time
I’m thrilled to report that I’ve recently scored a unicorn: an unsprayed, 100-ml bottle of OG Yohji Homme. Launched in 1999 by Japanese fashion house Yohji Yamamoto, when its fragrances were still under the Jean Patou label, it was designed by nose Jean-Michel Duriez, probably with support from legendary Patou in-house perfumer Jean Kerleo. Yohji Homme attained mythical status and a cult following in the early 2000s, later cemented by Luca Turin’s rave, five-star review in his first Guide with Tania Sanchez (2008).
Honestly, the juice is pretty freaking incredible. I haven’t been able to stop sniffing it since I got it a few days ago (I’ve worn it twice at night, once for a formal dinner and once before bedtime). Today’s my first full-day run with it. It has a complex, three-part structure consisting of 1) an anisic fougère that lightly treads on 2) gourmand territory and ends on 3) a dark, chypre-like base. The first time I smelled the opening it reminded me distantly of Davidoff Zino and Azzaro Pour Homme — the former, due to the lavender-rosewood; the latter, because of the lavender-anise. But all reminiscences end immediately, as Yohji begins to unfurl its secrets and take an utterly unique path toward an unexpected destination.
After the initial aromatic burst featuring bergamot, lavender, anise, and coriander, it gains in depth and warmth with cinnamon, a more prominent rosewood, and a delicious licorice accord that functions as the pivot to transition from fougère to gourmand. I can discern geranium (or is it carnation?), but whatever florals are present are subtle and quickly subsumed by the irruption of its base protagonists, the real stars of the show: a boozy rum that takes you for a spin, a rich coffee that provides sturdy comfort (and prevents a hangover) and a fine grain, worn-in, brown leather that is only slightly sweetened by high-quality tonka beans and a creamy sandalwood. Heaven.
Yohji Homme was a pioneer and is the perfect gourmand for those of us who don’t usually like gourmands. It’s merely gestural in this regard, in no way evoking anything truly edible. Rum and coffee: two of the best aromas in the world, especially to someone from Guatemala, like me. I have now found my holiday season holy grail: light, fresh, spicy, warm, boozy, semisweet, suave, inviting, and effortlessly interesting. No wonder it’s a legend.
Honestly, the juice is pretty freaking incredible. I haven’t been able to stop sniffing it since I got it a few days ago (I’ve worn it twice at night, once for a formal dinner and once before bedtime). Today’s my first full-day run with it. It has a complex, three-part structure consisting of 1) an anisic fougère that lightly treads on 2) gourmand territory and ends on 3) a dark, chypre-like base. The first time I smelled the opening it reminded me distantly of Davidoff Zino and Azzaro Pour Homme — the former, due to the lavender-rosewood; the latter, because of the lavender-anise. But all reminiscences end immediately, as Yohji begins to unfurl its secrets and take an utterly unique path toward an unexpected destination.
After the initial aromatic burst featuring bergamot, lavender, anise, and coriander, it gains in depth and warmth with cinnamon, a more prominent rosewood, and a delicious licorice accord that functions as the pivot to transition from fougère to gourmand. I can discern geranium (or is it carnation?), but whatever florals are present are subtle and quickly subsumed by the irruption of its base protagonists, the real stars of the show: a boozy rum that takes you for a spin, a rich coffee that provides sturdy comfort (and prevents a hangover) and a fine grain, worn-in, brown leather that is only slightly sweetened by high-quality tonka beans and a creamy sandalwood. Heaven.
Yohji Homme was a pioneer and is the perfect gourmand for those of us who don’t usually like gourmands. It’s merely gestural in this regard, in no way evoking anything truly edible. Rum and coffee: two of the best aromas in the world, especially to someone from Guatemala, like me. I have now found my holiday season holy grail: light, fresh, spicy, warm, boozy, semisweet, suave, inviting, and effortlessly interesting. No wonder it’s a legend.