Gold

Supreme Bouquet

Yves Saint Laurent 2013

"I noted 'A fragrance to kneel for!' when I received a small sample of 'Supreme Bouquet' last year - and that’s exactly what I thought again yesterday when I stumbled upon this perfume in a perfumery: Creamy and floral, but above all SWEET in a way that forbids any contradiction! Either the surprised tester opens their (olfactory) beak wide to inhale the olfactory mother's milk in large gulps - or they turn their head away in disgust because it’s just too much mother all at once... 'Supreme Bouquet' is overwhelmingly intense and immediately takes me into its oversized arms. A blissful grin spreads across my face.

For me, the sweet floral notes dominate this fragrance, but that alone wouldn’t be anything truly extraordinary: Tuberose, Ylang Ylang, and Jasmine can be found in many floral perfumes, where they unleash their superpowers alone or in combination. But in 'Supreme Bouquet', a fragrance note joins this all-star floral diva lineup that I didn’t know until now and that fascinates me: It must be the amberwood. Yesterday, in my ignorance, I would have sworn on stone and bone that it was Oud, as I felt reminded of its slightly medicinal note. I am not an Oud fan, so I am really glad that it is (apparently) not included in this perfume. Amberwood, however, is a new player on my scent stage and deserves closer examination.

Thanks to Wikipedia, I now know that amberwood comes from the amber tree, which is mainly found on the North American continent; its wood has a spicy scent and is very popular among artistic carpenters, while its liquid resin was once used to make chewing gum. Hmm. Could it be that this last component contributes to the (early) childhood appeal of 'Supreme Bouquet'? This 'Oh, no matter how old I am, I want to go to mama' effect? It would be really interesting to sniff amberwood pure to understand how it works in combination with others. In 'Supreme Bouquet', it seems to contribute to making the scent experience very personal, yes, very animalistic; it’s no coincidence that corresponding notes are listed in the fragrance pyramid. Sweet therefore does NOT mean sugary in this perfume, but rather as naturally delicious as some babies smell on their heads. (I vividly remember the distinct chocolate scent I once perceived on a child's head - in that respect, I can very well understand the previous comment from a perfume lover!)

Back to 'Supreme Bouquet': The perfume has a massive sillage and great longevity, surviving even a thorough shower. During the development of the fragrance, all creamy aspects quickly recede and give way to the spicy-sweet. It almost becomes a bit too much for me; as I said, I suspected that the all-powerful and omnipresent Oud had kidnapped my sniffing spot on my wrist. But ultimately, it’s only ALMOST too much, and the scent remains pleasant. It would be worth trying to apply 'Supreme Bouquet' to a piece of clothing to find out if this incomparable 'beak open!' effect lasts longer there. Fortunately, I still have the sample from last year, as I must say, despite all the fascination, that a price of nearly €200 is just too much for this sweet orgy.

'Supreme Bouquet' leaves me somewhat divided: The first second is pure ecstasy, the first minute bliss, the first hour the greatest joy - and what comes next I find pleasant, but I wouldn’t buy it. Therefore, unfortunately, no full score for 'Supreme Bouquet'. However, for those who enjoy being breathless from a fragrance, I recommend indulging in the pleasure of taking a deep sniff from the spray head: That’s all it takes to lie blissfully babbling in the cradle again!