This is Nuts! Or: Headless Sandalwood-Vanilla-Musk Milk with a Weak Heart
In the past, there was the circus or revue act 'The Lady Without a Lower Body.' Not my genre. I've never encountered one in the wild either. But now, a fragrance arrived at my home as a sample included with an online order, which promised, in a way, the opposite. A perfume made solely from base, butt, lower body: Wow?! :)
Moreover, it comes from a brand that has intrigued me for a long time due to its cleverly sounding name. Zadig & Voltaire makes one dream of enlightening tales from the sharp-tongued French critic, more precisely: of the colorful adventures and the happy ending of his Zadig.
But what does the fragrance 'This is us' tell us? The title could hint at a kind of key or signature scent of the Parisian fashion brand, but it likely points more to the unisex character of this perfume - as there have already been 'This is her' and 'This is him' for several years, marketed by Shisheido, the licensee of the French fashion chain; both sound pyramidally interesting and have been rated well here.
If you take a closer look at the texts printed on the new bottles (as a word person, I tend to appreciate such things), it becomes clear that unisex is not all there is. Intergenerationality is proclaimed: a scent for the whole family. While everyone is supposed to be 'forever young.' Additionally, alongside this transgenerational and universally sexual Us scent, a 'This is me' fragrance has hit the market, which apparently addresses ONLY the young or even children ("Kids"), selling them a defined, strong self (ME). Its pyramid reads quite similarly: sandalwood-vanilla on musk. While for the exclusively little ones, the (practically imperceptible) patchouli of the family scent has been replaced by 'cashmere' (presumably the soft-sounding synthetic wood-musk Cashmeran).
25 years after the unisex revival heralded by the decades-long mega-seller CK One, these refreshing, sympathetic, and welcome new target group formats seem to be a good thing. However, they have been oddly layered with strangely flat fragrance note pyramids. An integrative overall scent from kindergarten kids to great-grandmothers? Perhaps even including the resident dogs, cats, and hamsters into the pleasantly scented Us fragrance team (as long as they promise to smell forever young!)?
That would save space in the bathroom, which soon only a few will be able to afford due to rising real estate prices.
The problem (charitably put: the intriguing, interesting, minimalist…) is now: this We-fragrance wants or cannot quite tell a story. After spraying, it unfortunately reveals itself more as a muddled scent. 'This is Us' has no plot and hardly gets anywhere. It lasts only moderately long and projects weakly, which is hard to criticize.
Even the sequence of notes, as indicated here, made me raise my eyebrows: A pyramid without top and heart notes? Only classic, heavy, and long-lasting base notes combined? Without anything on top or around? The pyramid as a bungalow or as an underground garage? As a deep bunker for a comfortably snuggling extended family??
Well, what does the nose say: Because even if nothing citrusy, fruity, or floral is indicated, a scent must start with something. And it does, it cannot do otherwise: Sweet, vanillic, and with a typically sandalwood-creamy note, it begins. It doesn't smell bad, but it also doesn't come across as fresh or even distinctive. During the subsequent regular nose dive over the wrist, one might think they can sense a few nuances of vaguely milky fruits in this rather consistently (stubbornly!) maintained sandalwood-vanilla: coconut-fig-peach or fig-pear-tangerine, something like that.
And so it sandalwood-vanillas on - about as contoured or indifferent as a better sunscreen or skincare product - on and on. In the end, everything remains largely the same: I haven't encountered a serious appearance of patchouli, spice, or earthiness. A completely softened feel-good musk underpins this type of fluffy, flat wellness cream scents, so also here. Against this four-generation blend (pureed and stirred for two generations without and two with teeth…) the rounded, soft, all-embracing integrative CK One was, of course, a fresh-spicy aroma cannon.
None of this is directly unpleasant, not bad, not exciting. Somewhat soothing; even numbing?
I am not sad that the revue acts of ladies without lower bodies seem to be dying out. I wouldn't be sad if this bungalow base note combo scent with little (milky fruity) heart and no head eventually goes extinct.
Voltaire will remain. And Zadig too. Stories will be told as long as there are people: in tales, novels, contes philosophiques; or here in comments that are now called reviews. Or in scents, music, images that can tell a story.
Whether Zadig & Voltaire will remain - or more specifically this milky mediocre flat scent 'This is us' - I do not know. It probably doesn't matter. Here, at least, they haven't told me anything exciting, stimulating, or captivating during my three test runs. Certainly not enough.
And a poppily printed bottle along with a thought-provoking, universally integrative We-concept does not evoke any desire to own or wear it, even for a word person and collector who is receptive to such things.
I continue to prefer to live out minimalist whims with fresh chevrefeuille or verveine soliflores, with earthy patchouli or vetiver solis, or with lavender solo sonatas, like those from Monastère de Ganagobie. All of which undergo more transformations and have more to tell than 'This is Nuts.'
Or, why not, once again with CK One. They all actually go transgenerational too, right?!
As always, an eloquent and to-the-point review from you, Monsieur. For fans of sweet fig scents, it's a decent fragrance, but I'm not that impressed. I've definitely smelled worse. I also prefer CK One and CK be (my personal favorite) if we're going in that direction.
I didn't find the scent that bad, even if it wasn't anything special. However, your comment is outstanding. I'll admit I'm occasionally a fan of sandalwood vanilla cream, but over time, this "pleases everyone, annoys no one" thing gets a bit boring. Just like the general leveling out.
What a pleasure to read again, dear Mr. Test. Even though I sometimes have a tiny, slightly unconventional craving for fluffy, warm synthetic hugs, and this type of basement twilight scent might appeal to me then - a sample was enough for years. A transgenerational trophy!
" .. forever young .. " .. this connects Voltaire to Bob Dylan and Alexander the Great, all the way to the milky, all-encompassing family fragrance .. tempora mutantur .. very worthwhile comment .. insightful, polite, and yet clearly human in expression!
Zadig & Voltaire started off exciting and promising, but then they gradually minimized themselves and focused more and more on that sandalwood note, which was cleverly integrated at the beginning. I've long given up on the brand, although it was actually Just Rock that kicked off my still young fragrance journey.
So, it's kind of like the lithium of the perfume world: no highs, no lows, and it just kind of drifts in a cozy musk? It was a pleasure, my dear, to follow your thoughts on the pitfalls of olfactory harmonization madness!
Word person is good - I can relate to that. But not really with this scent. For me, a true "lady" is a complete package, and that includes both the body and the mind and heart... Thanks for your wonderful words!
In "This is HIM," they also used synthetic sandalwood-vanilla, and on top of that, there was pepper that gives you a headache. This one sounds just as terrible; no way- I wouldn't even do that to my hamster or dog!
I’m not familiar with the review number "Dame ohne Unterleib," but I’d definitely be more interested in that than in the perfume This Is Us! Your review is clearly at the top of this ranking, and I sincerely thank you for the insight into what a Voltaire has to offer. I always tip my hat to your eloquence!
Brilliantly dissected the scent and its zeitgeist milieu, making it a pleasure to read as well. The comparison to CK-One (in terms of intention, not scent character) is clear, but I doubt the fluffy cozy sweetness (the sandalwood-vanilla vibe is somewhat the brand's DNA) will achieve CK-One's success. A historical trophy of calmness for you!
I once tested This is Him and Just Rock pour Lui, and they would fit your beautiful description perfectly! Sweet cream scents with hints of something - I also find that totally overrated here. So I almost want to say to the brand: This is bull#*§!
As the next flanker, I suggest: This is nothing.
Everything (except for the review) is pretty dull and bland here...