I came across the Chapter No. 10 collection dedicated to amber last summer, even before it was available in the online virtual shop. The four fragrances were displayed on the shelf, and the testers were available, but there was no information about the notes and accords. On the box, a short sentence describes the sensations, maintaining the anonymity of the essence. A fleeting spray of the testers on the paper strips had made me formulate a first impression, and my preferences had immediately gone to “Amber Fever | Zara” and Amber Satin, precisely. But that time I decided not to make wild and impulsive purchases, and postponed the purchase. Both genderless, both warm ambers, one more woody and the other more spicy, I could not say which of the two manifests a more marked masculine thrust. Amber Satin is a spicy oriental, decadent, concentrate of dried brown fruit, a boozy, decidedly warm, spicy elixir that revolves around a mellifluous, and voluptuous amber. Its dark, intense, and opulent nuances make it very similar to the attars of the Middle East. Zara hasn’t revealed all the notes of this new Chapter No. 10 collection, just one or two notes, so everyone has to guess what’s inside by relying on their nose and instincts. I will try to guess the notes and chords that my nose can perceive and distinguish, but it remains my feeling, anyway.
Amber Satin is the booziest and spiciest amber in the Chapter No. 10 collection. The first spray gives me the impression of a thick, syrupy liquor, an almost alcoholic smell that catches me off guard but puts me in a good mood. The notes of bitter cherry, dried apricot and plum, and cinnamon bark are so overwhelming at the start that all the other notes that will come out later cannot cope with. There is a bit of harshness, perhaps because of the bergamot and other citrus peels, but the spiciness takes over. Slowly, a moist aroma of sweet pipe tobacco exudes from the alcoholic, sour and spicy blend. On my skin, cinnamon rules the opening.
Surprisingly, the rose creeps in as it enters the middle phase. It is a honeyed rose, nicely blended with cinnamon, and I swear I can detect a hint of clove that reinforces the warm spiciness. The floral edges of the roses are absent. Only the rosy vibrations survive here. Honey, spices and resins are the prevailing accords of the heart, and the rich honey adds sweetness to this fragrance. I imagine the formula includes a bit of iris since the trail releases a cloud of deep powdery nuance. Is it cosy? Yes, it is. The more I wear this perfume, the sooner I perceive the smoky, waxy notes of incense. It is vivid, like the sacred incense that burns in church during a service. If I smell the perfume close to my skin, I feel like I can feel that blanket of white smoke that envelops me when the altar boy spreads the essence of the incense by shaking the vial with the embers.
The dry-down continues with a soft, sweet, and creamy amber. I can smell a ton of coumarin embracing the woodier side of the base. The sweeter, powdery tonka bean and vanilla notes dominate the dry-down, along with the more bitter almond notes. The blond woods are cedar and sandalwood, with musky patchouli that adds depth and darkness. I also like how the bitterness of the almond, or something similar, balances the sweetness and creaminess of the coumarins. Just a morsel, yet the smoky incense is in there, either. It is a beautiful and mysterious incense, so rich in resinous and smoky facets. Amber Satin is not linear at all, so don’t be surprised if you encounter deep tones of black cherry, moist tobacco leaves, and wild, rustic golden honey as it develops.
For me, who isn’t a big fan of sweet scents, it’s a wonderful gourmand that isn’t overly sweet. Along with cinnamon, these are the accords I smell the most in Amber Satin. This piece in the collection is amazing! More “grown up” than the other three fragrances. If you know them, you know what I mean. It is a fascinating boozy amber vanilla with its rich spicy and honeyed notes, Middle Eastern vibes and nuances and maybe a little touch of clean oud that comes out in the drydown, but very delicate and almost imperceptible and bearable. To my nose, the scent is strong and seductive, which makes it perfect for evening wear. Recommended for the colder months of autumn and winter, good for leisure and outdoor events. I would avoid it in intense heat. It is not an office fragrance because it is powerful. Good sillage and the kind of longevity throughout the day, that you would expect from such a dark amber scent. I can’t wait for the temperatures to cool a bit to start wearing this Amber Satin. As for similarities, to my nose, Amber Satin is not a replica of “Nocturnal Life | Zara”, “Sand Desert at Sunset | Zara”, or “Angels’ Share | Kilian”. Sure, they all belong to the same family group and subgroup, but worn side by side they release distinct shimmers.
I based my opinions on a bottle I’ve owned since September 2024 (BC 41300, PD 2024-05-09).
