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A Pastel Cloud Of Oud
Although the ZARA collection created by master Alberto Morillas includes four disparate fragrances, and I have purchased three of them, Virtuous Oud has not yet become part of my private collection. Not because I didn’t like it, on a whim, because I appreciated it too much or too little, or other trivial reasons. Simply, its citrus, floral and aquatic composition did not reflect my autumnal tastes, which I found perfectly in the other three. It is also very different from the other three: less warm, less full-bodied, and less demanding. And that’s why I didn’t rush to buy it. Until yesterday, when I saw that ZARA had put some lines of its perfumes on sale, almost at half price, I didn’t miss the opportunity to complete the Oud collection by adding this missing piece. And I’m happy I did.
There are citrus, spicy, aquatic, and woody smells to Virtuous Oud, which makes itself known through a citrus and aquatic burst. The presence of calone is dominant and will be the backbone of the perfume for its entire duration. We know that calone can have different shades, ranging from fruity melon to greenish cucumber, to brackish, and ozonic. For this creation, master Alberto Morillas opted for the aquatic ozonic variant, which together with the peels of fizzy lemon and powdery bergamot, create a bright, sparkling opening, which smells of humid spring mornings with the sun reflecting among the myriads of dewdrops. The lemon is strong, unripe, and intense, like the Italian lemons of Amalfi, Sorrento, and Syracuse, the most fragrant of all. And it is precisely among these chords that the inspiration for one of the master’s masterpieces, Acqua di Giò, is hidden. I dare say that Virtuous Oud is a replica of Acqua di Giò, or rather, of one of the many flankers that have followed one another. My memory associates it with the Acqua di Giò Essenza variant. Still, almost certainly, by wearing it several times, one could grasp the nuances and vibrations of #giò Profumo or Acqua di Giò pour Homme Eau de Parfum. But this matters little since Virtuous Oud is virtuous enough to defend itself with its hands. This salty, lemony sensation lasts several minutes on the skin while turning to aromatic floral on the paper strip. Lavender makes itself felt, with herbaceous and metallic tones. Behind this harsh and humid explosion lies a soft cloud of oud, clean, candid, airy, or white, as the composition says. It is so delicate and well-dosed, not at all animalic or barn, that beginners will struggle to recognise it.
Don’t stop here, and don’t judge it by the first notes because the perfume is complex, it evolves and changes, hour after hour. Entering the heart of the fragrance, a floral bouquet adds freshness and silkiness to the mixture. Lavender mixes with powdery flowers and metallic leaves. I recognise the dustiness of the iris and the greenness of the violet leaves. But violet leaves are not the only greenish ingredient. From afar, in the wake, the earthy profile of green vetiver roots and stems appears idle. There are moments when the fresh puffs recall a bit the barbershop genre, lemon and vetiver blend, a modern cologne that incorporates a veil of immaculate oud. The aquatic side is tamed and does not have too many references to marine, salt or algae scents. And this is good for me, who has always adored marine perfumes, to the point of becoming accustomed to the Aqva pour Homme Eau de Toilette series, almost repudiating them after having greedily consumed them. Aromatic, aquatic, and earthy are the prevalent aspects of the middle phase.
Virtuous Ous takes on slightly sweetish and leathery aspects as it approaches the dry-down. I can perceive the powdery and spicy facets of coumarin, and leathery hints typical of saffron flower, perhaps used to recreate the accord of expensive oud. To give depth to the base, there is a good dose of molecular ambergris, alternating with pure caresses of white musk. More modest are the creamy and woody notes of sandalwood intertwined with patchouli leaves, also cleaned, which is dirty without weighing it down. Meanwhile, the vetiver has moved to the back rows to make way for the other notes. Despite the woody, earthy, musky, and amber edges, the fragrance maintains its aquatic, citrus, and floral characteristics with that light touch of oud.
Even though I don’t like to assign a gender to perfumes, this essence has a masculine impetus, the kind of perfumes that women love to smell on men. Quite an unusual oud fragrance you can wear on warmer days during spring and summer. I think this is the most versatile of the four Oud perfumes by Alberto Morillas. It’s just right for sunny days, with average projection and duration. I think Alberto Morillas did not invent a new cologne, but created a modern replica of Acqua di Giò for this creation.
I’m basing my emotions on a bottle I’ve owned since October 2023 (BC 32130)
-Elysium
There are citrus, spicy, aquatic, and woody smells to Virtuous Oud, which makes itself known through a citrus and aquatic burst. The presence of calone is dominant and will be the backbone of the perfume for its entire duration. We know that calone can have different shades, ranging from fruity melon to greenish cucumber, to brackish, and ozonic. For this creation, master Alberto Morillas opted for the aquatic ozonic variant, which together with the peels of fizzy lemon and powdery bergamot, create a bright, sparkling opening, which smells of humid spring mornings with the sun reflecting among the myriads of dewdrops. The lemon is strong, unripe, and intense, like the Italian lemons of Amalfi, Sorrento, and Syracuse, the most fragrant of all. And it is precisely among these chords that the inspiration for one of the master’s masterpieces, Acqua di Giò, is hidden. I dare say that Virtuous Oud is a replica of Acqua di Giò, or rather, of one of the many flankers that have followed one another. My memory associates it with the Acqua di Giò Essenza variant. Still, almost certainly, by wearing it several times, one could grasp the nuances and vibrations of #giò Profumo or Acqua di Giò pour Homme Eau de Parfum. But this matters little since Virtuous Oud is virtuous enough to defend itself with its hands. This salty, lemony sensation lasts several minutes on the skin while turning to aromatic floral on the paper strip. Lavender makes itself felt, with herbaceous and metallic tones. Behind this harsh and humid explosion lies a soft cloud of oud, clean, candid, airy, or white, as the composition says. It is so delicate and well-dosed, not at all animalic or barn, that beginners will struggle to recognise it.
Don’t stop here, and don’t judge it by the first notes because the perfume is complex, it evolves and changes, hour after hour. Entering the heart of the fragrance, a floral bouquet adds freshness and silkiness to the mixture. Lavender mixes with powdery flowers and metallic leaves. I recognise the dustiness of the iris and the greenness of the violet leaves. But violet leaves are not the only greenish ingredient. From afar, in the wake, the earthy profile of green vetiver roots and stems appears idle. There are moments when the fresh puffs recall a bit the barbershop genre, lemon and vetiver blend, a modern cologne that incorporates a veil of immaculate oud. The aquatic side is tamed and does not have too many references to marine, salt or algae scents. And this is good for me, who has always adored marine perfumes, to the point of becoming accustomed to the Aqva pour Homme Eau de Toilette series, almost repudiating them after having greedily consumed them. Aromatic, aquatic, and earthy are the prevalent aspects of the middle phase.
Virtuous Ous takes on slightly sweetish and leathery aspects as it approaches the dry-down. I can perceive the powdery and spicy facets of coumarin, and leathery hints typical of saffron flower, perhaps used to recreate the accord of expensive oud. To give depth to the base, there is a good dose of molecular ambergris, alternating with pure caresses of white musk. More modest are the creamy and woody notes of sandalwood intertwined with patchouli leaves, also cleaned, which is dirty without weighing it down. Meanwhile, the vetiver has moved to the back rows to make way for the other notes. Despite the woody, earthy, musky, and amber edges, the fragrance maintains its aquatic, citrus, and floral characteristics with that light touch of oud.
Even though I don’t like to assign a gender to perfumes, this essence has a masculine impetus, the kind of perfumes that women love to smell on men. Quite an unusual oud fragrance you can wear on warmer days during spring and summer. I think this is the most versatile of the four Oud perfumes by Alberto Morillas. It’s just right for sunny days, with average projection and duration. I think Alberto Morillas did not invent a new cologne, but created a modern replica of Acqua di Giò for this creation.
I’m basing my emotions on a bottle I’ve owned since October 2023 (BC 32130)
-Elysium
Elysium
